You must serve as an example in implementing energy efficiency.
I think if corporate America is serious about energy conservation; it must start with people at the top and roll down from there to the rest of the executives and employees.
In order to accomplish such an important mission as energy conservation every executive and employee has to believe that what he is doing is the right thing.
They must practice the same attitude at home and implement energy conservation at home. This attitude will carry on to the workplace.
First thing that must be done is, each employee should be asked what has he/she done in their own lives to conserve energy, and than if the answer is positive advance the initiative from there, if not an education process must be implemented to drive the process home once this process has been achieved, it will be easier to get everyone to participate in energy conservation.
The motive and behavior has to come from within each individual person – it must become part of a routine practice – it must become a way of life – reducing waste in any form.
In today’s rising cost of energy – conservation must become a national theme.
Jay Draiman, Energy Analyst
Tuesday, August 9, 2011
Natural Cooling with Whole House Fans
Natural Cooling with Whole House Fans
A whole house fan is a quiet, natural and pleasant alternative to keep your home cool and comfortable and while saving big on home energy.
Whole house fans can reduce or even eliminate air conditioning use by taking advantage of the natural cooling cycles that nature provides. Here's how they work: The whole house fan is mounted between your living space and the attic, and is operated in the evening, night-time and morning, when outside air is cool. The device draws cool fresh air in through open windows while exhausting hot stale air out through attic roof vents. This circulation creates a fresh and comfortable living environment and, importantly, draws heat out of the structure to reduce/delay heat loading for the next day.
Cool, fresh air is drawn inside while hot, stale air is exhausted through the roof vents.
Much improved over old-fashioned designs
Traditional whole house fans are big, noisy and difficult to install. They often require fussy maintenance and are poorly sealed so, in colder climates, can create problems of heat loss and attic condensation in the winter. AirScape whole house fans represent a breakthrough in usability and practicality. They are compact, VERY QUIET, very easy to install and require no maintenance. Plus, they have automatic, insulated doors so they are safe and convenient to use in four-season climates. And total energy use is equivalent to just one or two light bulbs!
The AirScape's unique design allows for installation within your existing joist configuration.
Great for most climates
While especially effective in dry desert climates, whole house fans can be great in other climates as well, though often in shoulder seasons and/or working in conjunction with AC. We've sold AirScape whole house fans all over the country, including New Orleans, Florida and Maine. AirScape fans use less than one tenth the energy of typical AC units, so in almost any climate an AirScape fan can help reduce your energy consumption while you enjoy fresh, natural breezes rather than recycled indoor air.
An AirScape whole house fan:
• saves energy with a smart, elegant cooling that is good for the environment
• solves the problem of excessive heat accumulation in upstairs bedrooms
• reduces or eliminates dependence on expensive and wasteful A/C
• allows you to enjoy fresh air and more natural, livable home
A whole house fan is a quiet, natural and pleasant alternative to keep your home cool and comfortable and while saving big on home energy.
Whole house fans can reduce or even eliminate air conditioning use by taking advantage of the natural cooling cycles that nature provides. Here's how they work: The whole house fan is mounted between your living space and the attic, and is operated in the evening, night-time and morning, when outside air is cool. The device draws cool fresh air in through open windows while exhausting hot stale air out through attic roof vents. This circulation creates a fresh and comfortable living environment and, importantly, draws heat out of the structure to reduce/delay heat loading for the next day.
Cool, fresh air is drawn inside while hot, stale air is exhausted through the roof vents.
Much improved over old-fashioned designs
Traditional whole house fans are big, noisy and difficult to install. They often require fussy maintenance and are poorly sealed so, in colder climates, can create problems of heat loss and attic condensation in the winter. AirScape whole house fans represent a breakthrough in usability and practicality. They are compact, VERY QUIET, very easy to install and require no maintenance. Plus, they have automatic, insulated doors so they are safe and convenient to use in four-season climates. And total energy use is equivalent to just one or two light bulbs!
The AirScape's unique design allows for installation within your existing joist configuration.
Great for most climates
While especially effective in dry desert climates, whole house fans can be great in other climates as well, though often in shoulder seasons and/or working in conjunction with AC. We've sold AirScape whole house fans all over the country, including New Orleans, Florida and Maine. AirScape fans use less than one tenth the energy of typical AC units, so in almost any climate an AirScape fan can help reduce your energy consumption while you enjoy fresh, natural breezes rather than recycled indoor air.
An AirScape whole house fan:
• saves energy with a smart, elegant cooling that is good for the environment
• solves the problem of excessive heat accumulation in upstairs bedrooms
• reduces or eliminates dependence on expensive and wasteful A/C
• allows you to enjoy fresh air and more natural, livable home
ATTIC FANS AND WHOLE HOUSE FANS CAN SAVE YOU MONEY ON AIR-CONDITIONING
ATTIC FANS AND WHOLE HOUSE FANS CAN SAVE YOU MONEY ON AIR-CONDITIONING
Efficiency in cooling is the name of the game for homeowners who like to stay cool. One source of added efficiency often overlooked is the attic fan. There are two types of attic fans, one cools only the attic and is properly called an attic fan, the other one is really a whole house fan and cools the whole house using outside air instead of air conditioning. Both fans can be used with satisfying results.
WHOLE HOUSE FANS
Many people use whole house fans as an alternative to air-conditioning. A whole house fan is most effective when outside air temperatures are below 82ºF. It brings a cooling breeze in through the windows of the home and cools more efficiently than an air-conditioner (Click on picture to enlarge).
Some times central air-conditioning is too expensive to install. When a house has been originally built with hot water radiator heat, installing central air-conditioning can be cost prohibitive because there is not any ductwork to distribute air throughout the house. Also, a whole house fan only uses about ¼ of the power that a central air-conditioning system does. Some people just don’t like air conditioning or may want the option of using outside air for cooling and ventilating their homes. Whole house fans draw massive amounts of air through a home. Moving air feels cooler than still air so high volumes of air are usually preferred.
One objection that some people have with whole house fans is the sound that is created when running. There are basically three types of noise created: air noise, motor vibration and shutter rattle. A well-engineered whole house fan will address all of these issues.
Generally speaking the more blades a fan blade has the quieter it will be, (five blades are better that four). Each blade does less work and thereby creates a smoother, even sound as opposed to fewer blades where the sound is choppy and irritating. One strategy for sizing a whole house fan for a house is to get the largest fan that will fit into the ceiling area of a hallway where a fan would typically be installed. Any size fan will be quieter when run at a slower speed; so by getting a large fan that has a low speed you can get less noise and still move a high volume of air because of the large size. Running on low speed also creates less wear and tear on the fan and saves electricity. Better whole house fans will have the whole fan isolated from the homes framing with foam strips or rubber mountings that will not transmit sound into the framing of the house. This keeps the motor hum from resounding through the framing and drywall of the home. It is better to have no direct mechanical connection to the house framing. Heavier fans are better because they rest on foam weather stripping held down only by their own weight.
Higher quality shutters will be heavier and have connecting rods connecting vanes of the shutter so they act together. This prevents one or more vanes from oscillating and possibly clapping shut and re-opening. Also, a better shutter will have an adjustable spring that will assist in opening the shutter as the fan sucks it open and cushion and slow the closing when the fan is shut off. This prevents the shutters from creating a loud thump when shutting when the fan is turned off. Some shutters even have a felt strip at the edge of each vane to seal in air when the fan is off and to silence the shutter when it closes.
Having as timer is also a good idea. A timer will let the fan run a pre set length of time so that you can set it before going to bed an have it shut off automatically when you feel it may get too cold at night. Thermostats are not a good idea because they could turn the fan on when no one is home and preparation hasn’t been made for it to come on. Windows must be opened first. Also, a fire in the fireplace could trigger it to come on unexpectedly with danger of sucking flames in from the fireplace. Obviously, some caution must be used when operating a whole house fan. The drill is really pretty simple: turn off heating and air-conditioning, open windows, no fires in fireplace and then turn the whole house fan on. Without opening windows first, some air could also be drawn down other vents or chimneys for heating and water heat, possibly blowing out pilot lights.
The amount of work required to install a whole house fan varies from house to house, but can generally be retrofitted into an existing house by a professional in about 8 to 16 man-hours. One major variable is the venting, if you plan on running the fan on high speed, (most people do) you need to make sure that there is at least enough exhaust venting for high speed setting. Fans are rated by cubic feet of air per minute or cfm. A good rule of thumb is to provide one square foot of net free venting area for every 750 cfm. Net free venting is the area after subtracting for louvers and screens. Generally the vents are roof vents, louvered wall vents or eave vents. Some roof vents and some eave vents have their respective net free venting areas stamped right on them. Ridge vents, depending on type, are not as good for providing the bulk of vent area needed although they do help slightly.
One strategy is to get an attic fan with a whole house fan. Special timer switches (DPST) are available and when installed they will turn on both fans to help expel some of the air being pushed into the attic. It is important to use only this type of switch for this application, because with a normal switch the attic fan thermostat would back feed and run the whole house fan even when the homeowner has not selected the on position for the whole house fan switch.
Better whole house fans have a welded frame. Effectively they are one-piece construction using heavy gauge steel for the venturi and motor and fan supports. This type of construction is better because it will never loosen up or begin to squeak. The only problem might occur if the installer was trying to fit the fan into a very small attic space; it may not fit through the opening when turned up on end before hitting the roof. Fans that can be disassembled can be fit through and then reassembled in the attic. One strategy for installing a welded frame fan into a smaller attic is to use a larger shutter than is required so the fan could be lifted into the attic in a horizontal or flat position and then supported by ledger strips around inside of opening. The larger shutter would then fill the larger opening that was made in order to lift the fan through in flat position.
To visit one source for higher quality whole house fans, click here....
ATTIC FANS - SOLAR & ELECTRIC
When the temperature climbs above 82ºF and you decide to use air conditioning, you can shut the windows and crank up the air knowing that the attic fan will save up to 30% on cooling costs by getting rid of trapped super hot air that tends to collect in attics and cause heat to back up into the home. (Click on picture to enlarge)
Attic temperatures can get up to 150ºF without an attic fan. Attic fans create a positive air-flow through your attic that does not rely on wind or require excessive passive venting. Excessive passive venting can cause excessive moisture infiltration in the form of snow or rain. The attic fan is normally mounted up on the roof of the home toward the back about two feet down from the peak. It goes on and off automatically with a thermostat, so it only runs when it is beneficial. The attic fan has a flashing that fits in with the shingles and is water-proof. Attic fans use less than 300 Watts, and offer these important advantages:
1. Lowers upstairs room temperatures by 10º.
2. Lengthens roof life by keeping shingles cooler.
3. With an optional humidistat, keep attics dry during winter months.
4. Saves up to 30% on air-conditioning costs.
The exact savings obtained depends on several factors like: the color of your roof, if the home is shaded, the amount of insulation you have, and the efficiency of your cooling system. Ideally, an attic fan installation will pay for itself within 3 years. A high quality attic fan is recommended. A heavy screen is required to stop pests. All metal construction is preferred as plastic fans do not hold up as well and over time will crack. A quality thermostat is also essential to save from climbing up into the attic for resetting. A firestat, which shuts the attic fan off for extremely high temperatures, is needed in case of a home fire. A permanently lubricated motor, insures quiet, maintenance-free operation.
There are 2 types of attic fans: roof top, and gable-end. Attic fans can be electrical or solar powered.
For more information on how you can obtain an Attic Fan or Whole House Fan for your home or for customers' homes, please click one of the links on the left.
Efficiency in cooling is the name of the game for homeowners who like to stay cool. One source of added efficiency often overlooked is the attic fan. There are two types of attic fans, one cools only the attic and is properly called an attic fan, the other one is really a whole house fan and cools the whole house using outside air instead of air conditioning. Both fans can be used with satisfying results.
WHOLE HOUSE FANS
Many people use whole house fans as an alternative to air-conditioning. A whole house fan is most effective when outside air temperatures are below 82ºF. It brings a cooling breeze in through the windows of the home and cools more efficiently than an air-conditioner (Click on picture to enlarge).
Some times central air-conditioning is too expensive to install. When a house has been originally built with hot water radiator heat, installing central air-conditioning can be cost prohibitive because there is not any ductwork to distribute air throughout the house. Also, a whole house fan only uses about ¼ of the power that a central air-conditioning system does. Some people just don’t like air conditioning or may want the option of using outside air for cooling and ventilating their homes. Whole house fans draw massive amounts of air through a home. Moving air feels cooler than still air so high volumes of air are usually preferred.
One objection that some people have with whole house fans is the sound that is created when running. There are basically three types of noise created: air noise, motor vibration and shutter rattle. A well-engineered whole house fan will address all of these issues.
Generally speaking the more blades a fan blade has the quieter it will be, (five blades are better that four). Each blade does less work and thereby creates a smoother, even sound as opposed to fewer blades where the sound is choppy and irritating. One strategy for sizing a whole house fan for a house is to get the largest fan that will fit into the ceiling area of a hallway where a fan would typically be installed. Any size fan will be quieter when run at a slower speed; so by getting a large fan that has a low speed you can get less noise and still move a high volume of air because of the large size. Running on low speed also creates less wear and tear on the fan and saves electricity. Better whole house fans will have the whole fan isolated from the homes framing with foam strips or rubber mountings that will not transmit sound into the framing of the house. This keeps the motor hum from resounding through the framing and drywall of the home. It is better to have no direct mechanical connection to the house framing. Heavier fans are better because they rest on foam weather stripping held down only by their own weight.
Higher quality shutters will be heavier and have connecting rods connecting vanes of the shutter so they act together. This prevents one or more vanes from oscillating and possibly clapping shut and re-opening. Also, a better shutter will have an adjustable spring that will assist in opening the shutter as the fan sucks it open and cushion and slow the closing when the fan is shut off. This prevents the shutters from creating a loud thump when shutting when the fan is turned off. Some shutters even have a felt strip at the edge of each vane to seal in air when the fan is off and to silence the shutter when it closes.
Having as timer is also a good idea. A timer will let the fan run a pre set length of time so that you can set it before going to bed an have it shut off automatically when you feel it may get too cold at night. Thermostats are not a good idea because they could turn the fan on when no one is home and preparation hasn’t been made for it to come on. Windows must be opened first. Also, a fire in the fireplace could trigger it to come on unexpectedly with danger of sucking flames in from the fireplace. Obviously, some caution must be used when operating a whole house fan. The drill is really pretty simple: turn off heating and air-conditioning, open windows, no fires in fireplace and then turn the whole house fan on. Without opening windows first, some air could also be drawn down other vents or chimneys for heating and water heat, possibly blowing out pilot lights.
The amount of work required to install a whole house fan varies from house to house, but can generally be retrofitted into an existing house by a professional in about 8 to 16 man-hours. One major variable is the venting, if you plan on running the fan on high speed, (most people do) you need to make sure that there is at least enough exhaust venting for high speed setting. Fans are rated by cubic feet of air per minute or cfm. A good rule of thumb is to provide one square foot of net free venting area for every 750 cfm. Net free venting is the area after subtracting for louvers and screens. Generally the vents are roof vents, louvered wall vents or eave vents. Some roof vents and some eave vents have their respective net free venting areas stamped right on them. Ridge vents, depending on type, are not as good for providing the bulk of vent area needed although they do help slightly.
One strategy is to get an attic fan with a whole house fan. Special timer switches (DPST) are available and when installed they will turn on both fans to help expel some of the air being pushed into the attic. It is important to use only this type of switch for this application, because with a normal switch the attic fan thermostat would back feed and run the whole house fan even when the homeowner has not selected the on position for the whole house fan switch.
Better whole house fans have a welded frame. Effectively they are one-piece construction using heavy gauge steel for the venturi and motor and fan supports. This type of construction is better because it will never loosen up or begin to squeak. The only problem might occur if the installer was trying to fit the fan into a very small attic space; it may not fit through the opening when turned up on end before hitting the roof. Fans that can be disassembled can be fit through and then reassembled in the attic. One strategy for installing a welded frame fan into a smaller attic is to use a larger shutter than is required so the fan could be lifted into the attic in a horizontal or flat position and then supported by ledger strips around inside of opening. The larger shutter would then fill the larger opening that was made in order to lift the fan through in flat position.
To visit one source for higher quality whole house fans, click here....
ATTIC FANS - SOLAR & ELECTRIC
When the temperature climbs above 82ºF and you decide to use air conditioning, you can shut the windows and crank up the air knowing that the attic fan will save up to 30% on cooling costs by getting rid of trapped super hot air that tends to collect in attics and cause heat to back up into the home. (Click on picture to enlarge)
Attic temperatures can get up to 150ºF without an attic fan. Attic fans create a positive air-flow through your attic that does not rely on wind or require excessive passive venting. Excessive passive venting can cause excessive moisture infiltration in the form of snow or rain. The attic fan is normally mounted up on the roof of the home toward the back about two feet down from the peak. It goes on and off automatically with a thermostat, so it only runs when it is beneficial. The attic fan has a flashing that fits in with the shingles and is water-proof. Attic fans use less than 300 Watts, and offer these important advantages:
1. Lowers upstairs room temperatures by 10º.
2. Lengthens roof life by keeping shingles cooler.
3. With an optional humidistat, keep attics dry during winter months.
4. Saves up to 30% on air-conditioning costs.
The exact savings obtained depends on several factors like: the color of your roof, if the home is shaded, the amount of insulation you have, and the efficiency of your cooling system. Ideally, an attic fan installation will pay for itself within 3 years. A high quality attic fan is recommended. A heavy screen is required to stop pests. All metal construction is preferred as plastic fans do not hold up as well and over time will crack. A quality thermostat is also essential to save from climbing up into the attic for resetting. A firestat, which shuts the attic fan off for extremely high temperatures, is needed in case of a home fire. A permanently lubricated motor, insures quiet, maintenance-free operation.
There are 2 types of attic fans: roof top, and gable-end. Attic fans can be electrical or solar powered.
For more information on how you can obtain an Attic Fan or Whole House Fan for your home or for customers' homes, please click one of the links on the left.
Sunday, August 7, 2011
Get the most from your air conditioning
Get the most from your air conditioning
Open windows and use portable or ceiling fans instead of operating your air conditioner. Even mild air movement of 1 mph can make you feel three or four degrees cooler. Make sure your ceiling fan is turned for summer -- you should feel the air blown downward. If you live in a relatively dry climate, a bowl or tray of ice in front of a box fan can cool you as it evaporates.
Use a fan with your window air conditioner to spread the cool air through your home.
Without blocking air flow, shade your outside compressor. Change air filters monthly during the summer.
Use a programmable thermostat with your air conditioner to adjust the setting at night or when no one is home.
Don't place lamps or TVs near your air conditioning thermostat. The heat from these appliances will cause the air conditioner to run longer.
Consider installing a whole house fan or evaporative cooler (a "swamp cooler") if appropriate for your climate. Attics trap fierce amounts of heat; a well-placed and -sized whole-house fan pulls air through open windows on the bottom floors and exhausts it through the roof, lowering the inside temperature and reducing energy use by as much as third compared with an air conditioner. Cost is between $200 and $400 if you install it yourself. An evaporative cooler pulls air over pads soaked in cold water and uses a quarter the energy of refrigerated air, but they're useful only in low-humidity areas. Cost is $200 to $600. (See "Keep cool without pricey AC.")
Install white window shades, drapes, or blinds to reflect heat away from the house. Close curtains on south- and west-facing windows during the day.
Install awnings on south-facing windows. Because of the angle of the sun, trees, a trellis, or a fence will best shade west-facing windows. Apply sun-control or other reflective films on south-facing windows.
Landscaping for a cooler house
Plant trees or shrubs to shade air conditioning units, but not block the airflow. A unit operating in the shade uses less electricity.
Grown on trellises, vines such as ivy or grapevines can shade windows or the whole side of a house.
Avoid landscaping with lots of unshaded rock, cement, or asphalt on the south or west sides. It increases the temperature around the house and radiates heat to the house after the sun has set.
Deciduous trees planted on the south and west sides will keep your house cool in the summer. Just three trees, properly placed around a house, can save a few hundred dollars in annual cooling and heating costs. In summer, daytime air temperatures can be 3 degrees to 6 degrees cooler in tree-shaded neighborhoods.
Little things mean a lot
Replace incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescents; they produce the same light but use a fifth the energy and heat
Air-dry dishes instead of using your dishwasher's drying cycle.
Use a microwave oven instead of a conventional electric range or oven.
Turn off your computer and monitor when not in use.
Plug home electronics, such as TVs and VCRs, into power strips, and turn power strips off when equipment is not in use.
Lower the thermostat on your water heater; 115° is comfortable for most uses.
Take showers instead of baths to reduce hot water use.
Wash only full loads of dishes and clothes.
Don't air-condition the whole neighborhood
Caulking and weatherstripping will keep cool air in during the summer.
If you see holes or separated joints in your ducts, hire a professional to repair them.
Add insulation around air conditioning ducts when they are located in unconditioned spaces such as attics, crawl spaces, and garages; do the same for whole-house fans where they open to the exterior or to the attic.
Check to see that your fireplace damper is tightly closed.
Plan ahead
More costly but effective cooling measures are available as your home undergoes normal upgrades and repairs.
A 10-year-old air conditioner, for example, is only half as efficient as a new one. A quick check of your air conditioner's efficiency can help you decide whether to call in a service professional. Use a household thermometer to measure the temperature of the discharge air from the register and the temperature of the return air at the return-air grill. (Keep the thermometer in place for five minutes to get a steady temperature.) The difference should be from 14 to 20 degrees, experts say. An air conditioner that's not cooling to those levels could be low on refrigerant or have leaks. A unit cooling more than 20 degrees could have a severe blockage.
Using light shingles on a new roof can cut the amount of heat the house absorbs. Repainting in a light color, especially south- and west-facing exterior areas, helps as well.
Upgraded insulation in the attic and double-paned windows all around, complete with tinting to reflect sunlight, are good ideas, too.
Open windows and use portable or ceiling fans instead of operating your air conditioner. Even mild air movement of 1 mph can make you feel three or four degrees cooler. Make sure your ceiling fan is turned for summer -- you should feel the air blown downward. If you live in a relatively dry climate, a bowl or tray of ice in front of a box fan can cool you as it evaporates.
Use a fan with your window air conditioner to spread the cool air through your home.
Without blocking air flow, shade your outside compressor. Change air filters monthly during the summer.
Use a programmable thermostat with your air conditioner to adjust the setting at night or when no one is home.
Don't place lamps or TVs near your air conditioning thermostat. The heat from these appliances will cause the air conditioner to run longer.
Consider installing a whole house fan or evaporative cooler (a "swamp cooler") if appropriate for your climate. Attics trap fierce amounts of heat; a well-placed and -sized whole-house fan pulls air through open windows on the bottom floors and exhausts it through the roof, lowering the inside temperature and reducing energy use by as much as third compared with an air conditioner. Cost is between $200 and $400 if you install it yourself. An evaporative cooler pulls air over pads soaked in cold water and uses a quarter the energy of refrigerated air, but they're useful only in low-humidity areas. Cost is $200 to $600. (See "Keep cool without pricey AC.")
Install white window shades, drapes, or blinds to reflect heat away from the house. Close curtains on south- and west-facing windows during the day.
Install awnings on south-facing windows. Because of the angle of the sun, trees, a trellis, or a fence will best shade west-facing windows. Apply sun-control or other reflective films on south-facing windows.
Landscaping for a cooler house
Plant trees or shrubs to shade air conditioning units, but not block the airflow. A unit operating in the shade uses less electricity.
Grown on trellises, vines such as ivy or grapevines can shade windows or the whole side of a house.
Avoid landscaping with lots of unshaded rock, cement, or asphalt on the south or west sides. It increases the temperature around the house and radiates heat to the house after the sun has set.
Deciduous trees planted on the south and west sides will keep your house cool in the summer. Just three trees, properly placed around a house, can save a few hundred dollars in annual cooling and heating costs. In summer, daytime air temperatures can be 3 degrees to 6 degrees cooler in tree-shaded neighborhoods.
Little things mean a lot
Replace incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescents; they produce the same light but use a fifth the energy and heat
Air-dry dishes instead of using your dishwasher's drying cycle.
Use a microwave oven instead of a conventional electric range or oven.
Turn off your computer and monitor when not in use.
Plug home electronics, such as TVs and VCRs, into power strips, and turn power strips off when equipment is not in use.
Lower the thermostat on your water heater; 115° is comfortable for most uses.
Take showers instead of baths to reduce hot water use.
Wash only full loads of dishes and clothes.
Don't air-condition the whole neighborhood
Caulking and weatherstripping will keep cool air in during the summer.
If you see holes or separated joints in your ducts, hire a professional to repair them.
Add insulation around air conditioning ducts when they are located in unconditioned spaces such as attics, crawl spaces, and garages; do the same for whole-house fans where they open to the exterior or to the attic.
Check to see that your fireplace damper is tightly closed.
Plan ahead
More costly but effective cooling measures are available as your home undergoes normal upgrades and repairs.
A 10-year-old air conditioner, for example, is only half as efficient as a new one. A quick check of your air conditioner's efficiency can help you decide whether to call in a service professional. Use a household thermometer to measure the temperature of the discharge air from the register and the temperature of the return air at the return-air grill. (Keep the thermometer in place for five minutes to get a steady temperature.) The difference should be from 14 to 20 degrees, experts say. An air conditioner that's not cooling to those levels could be low on refrigerant or have leaks. A unit cooling more than 20 degrees could have a severe blockage.
Using light shingles on a new roof can cut the amount of heat the house absorbs. Repainting in a light color, especially south- and west-facing exterior areas, helps as well.
Upgraded insulation in the attic and double-paned windows all around, complete with tinting to reflect sunlight, are good ideas, too.
66 WAYS TO SAVE ELECTRICITY
66 WAYS TO SAVE ELECTRICITY
KEEP YOUR ELECTRICITY BILLS DOWN AND SAVE ENERGY FOR THE FUTURE BY BEING AWARE OF THE MOST EFFICIENT WAYS TO USE ELECTRICITY.
COOKING
1 Keep the door closed. Ever time you open it the temperature drop about 20 degrees (c)
2 Cook several dishes at the one time. If you are cooking small items use the fry-pan.
3 When cooking small quantities use one sauce pan with dividers.
4 Keep food warm at 70-80 deg(c) Higher temperatures waste electricity and over cook food.
5 Use oven heat for plate warming.
6 Use utensils with flat bottoms and well fitting lids. Make sure they cover hotplates.
7 To cook vegetables the water doesn't need to be boiling furiously - a gentle simmer is enough.
8 Fan type ovens reduce cooking costs.
9 Use bright clean hotplate reflectors to send the heat upwards where it is wanted.
10 Pressure cookers can save up to 25% of power.
11 Use small appliances e.g. griller, crockpot, wok, etc. for appropriate foods.
12 Thaw frozen foods before cooking - this saves about 15 minutes cooking per 450 grams (one pound).
13 A microwave is very economical for suitable functions -it is excellent for reconstituting food.
14 Don't use grill-boiler plate on top of range for utensils not large enough to cover it.
15 Don't boil water on a hotplate - use an electric kettle.
16 Make sure your oven door seals properly.
HEATING AND COOLING.
17 Have the ceiling insulated with at least 50mm of fibrous or foam insulation.
18 In timber framed or brick homes the walls should also be insulated. Block off any chimneys not being used - A lot of heat is lost there.
19 Unless you have full home conditioning close the doors of the room/s being heated or cooled. Doors and windows should fit well because draughts can waste a lot of energy. Close curtains to stop heat escaping.
20 See that air- conditioner filters and condenser coils are kept clean.
21 Reverse cycle air-conditioners provide 2 to 2.5 times as much heat as an element type heater for the same electricity consumption.
22 Zoning of a house conditioned by a ducted system can cut energy consumption to a half or even third.
23 Shade windows during summer to keep sun of the glass.
24 Don't leave heating or cooling appliances on when rooms are unoccupied.
25 Use personal fans and ceiling fans for relief from hot weather. Fans cost much less to run than air conditioners.
26 Many air- conditioning systems operate at 22 deg (c). You will still be comfortable if you set the control for 24-25 deg (c) in summer. and 18-19 deg (c) in winter and you will use a lot less electricity.
27 Leave room conditioner "fresh air" and "exhaust air" controls in the closed positions unless you want to freshen thaw room air.
28 Set fan at high speed for a room conditioner to work most efficiently.
29 Evaporative coolers are very effective when installed correctly. The operating cost of an evaporative cooler is only a fraction of that of a refrigerated unit.
30 A student can be kept warm with a 150 watt infra red lamp fitted under the desk.
31 Localized under carpet heating gives economical armchair comfort.
32 People heating is more economical than space heating.-use radiators multi-heat radiant heaters, wall strip heaters, fan heaters.
33 Electric blankets are the cheapest form of bedroom heating.
REFRIGERATION
34 Select a fridge that uses waste heat for defrosting etc. These fridges are usually cheaper to operate.
35 Buy the size you need extra capacity uses extra power.
36 If you already have a chest or upright freezer buy an "all though” refrigerator instead of a fridge freezer combination.
37 Defrost before the ice build up is 1 cm thick.
38 Open the door only when necessary.
39 Make sure the door seals well. If a piece of paper will slide easily between the cabinet and the door seal is not good enough.
40 Keep dust and fluff brushed off the coils on the back or bottom of the fridge.
41 Put the fridge in a well ventilated position.
42 Place your fridge away from direct sunlight or any source of heat. Don't put hot food into a fridge or freezer.
CLOTHES AND WASHING
43 Don't buy a large machine if you don't need it. For the occasional big wash an extra cycle or two is cheaper than under using a large washer.
44 Adjust the water level to economically wash a partial load. Otherwise it is better to wait until you have a full load. But don't overload your machine.
45 Your washer may have features than can save your money. Soak cycles remove stubborn stains in wash cycle. Suds savers allow you to re use hot water.
46 Use correct type of detergent and cold or tepid water will wash clothes effectively.
LIGHTING
47 Good lighting means avoiding glare and gloom by using the right amount of light in the right way.
48 Use light translucent shades- opaque or dark shades require bigger lamps.
49 Use a good local light near the task. It is more effective and more efficient than a large central light.
50 Use fluorescent tubes. They use about a quarter of electricity used by ordinary globes and they last
About eight times as long. They CAN be switched on and off as often as you need without affecting operating cost.
CLOTHES DRYING
51 Use solar energy to dry your clothes -it costs nothing.
52 Operate your dryer using the fan alone. Only switch the heater on if it is really necessary. Vent the dryer outside the house and don't let lint block the vent.
53 never overload or under load the dryer - you get most economical operation with the correct load.
54 Switch off when the clothes are dry enough - over drying makes them feel harsh and waste electricity.
55 Tumble dryers are more effective than cabinet dryers.
WATER HEATING
56 Off peak low pressure storage heaters are generally the cheapest overall.
57 Don't allow dripping taps .Sixty drips a minutes means about 1200 liters a month drown the drain.
And you have paid for it to be heated.
58 Water restrictors and low flow shower nozzles will help to save water.
59 Insulate hot water pipes from storage heaters for at least a meter from the heater as heat can be conducted along these pipes and lost to the atmosphere.
60 Install a storage heater of 125 liters or more to run off peak tariff - which is about half the normal rate.
61 Normally you will use less water for shower than bath.
62 Fill your electric kettle or jug from the cold tap. Running off a lot of cold water from the hot pipes is wasteful and expensive.
63 Don't have you hot water set too 70 deg (c) is usually hot enough. Otherwise it costs more to heat the water and it loses more heat while being stored.
ACCESSORIES
64 Dimmers save power and enable you to obtain pleasant changes of mood in your lighting.
65 Use plug-in timers to control such things as frying pans, crock pots, radiators, lights and air conditioners.
66. Install insulation and attic fan
KEEP YOUR ELECTRICITY BILLS DOWN AND SAVE ENERGY FOR THE FUTURE BY BEING AWARE OF THE MOST EFFICIENT WAYS TO USE ELECTRICITY.
COOKING
1 Keep the door closed. Ever time you open it the temperature drop about 20 degrees (c)
2 Cook several dishes at the one time. If you are cooking small items use the fry-pan.
3 When cooking small quantities use one sauce pan with dividers.
4 Keep food warm at 70-80 deg(c) Higher temperatures waste electricity and over cook food.
5 Use oven heat for plate warming.
6 Use utensils with flat bottoms and well fitting lids. Make sure they cover hotplates.
7 To cook vegetables the water doesn't need to be boiling furiously - a gentle simmer is enough.
8 Fan type ovens reduce cooking costs.
9 Use bright clean hotplate reflectors to send the heat upwards where it is wanted.
10 Pressure cookers can save up to 25% of power.
11 Use small appliances e.g. griller, crockpot, wok, etc. for appropriate foods.
12 Thaw frozen foods before cooking - this saves about 15 minutes cooking per 450 grams (one pound).
13 A microwave is very economical for suitable functions -it is excellent for reconstituting food.
14 Don't use grill-boiler plate on top of range for utensils not large enough to cover it.
15 Don't boil water on a hotplate - use an electric kettle.
16 Make sure your oven door seals properly.
HEATING AND COOLING.
17 Have the ceiling insulated with at least 50mm of fibrous or foam insulation.
18 In timber framed or brick homes the walls should also be insulated. Block off any chimneys not being used - A lot of heat is lost there.
19 Unless you have full home conditioning close the doors of the room/s being heated or cooled. Doors and windows should fit well because draughts can waste a lot of energy. Close curtains to stop heat escaping.
20 See that air- conditioner filters and condenser coils are kept clean.
21 Reverse cycle air-conditioners provide 2 to 2.5 times as much heat as an element type heater for the same electricity consumption.
22 Zoning of a house conditioned by a ducted system can cut energy consumption to a half or even third.
23 Shade windows during summer to keep sun of the glass.
24 Don't leave heating or cooling appliances on when rooms are unoccupied.
25 Use personal fans and ceiling fans for relief from hot weather. Fans cost much less to run than air conditioners.
26 Many air- conditioning systems operate at 22 deg (c). You will still be comfortable if you set the control for 24-25 deg (c) in summer. and 18-19 deg (c) in winter and you will use a lot less electricity.
27 Leave room conditioner "fresh air" and "exhaust air" controls in the closed positions unless you want to freshen thaw room air.
28 Set fan at high speed for a room conditioner to work most efficiently.
29 Evaporative coolers are very effective when installed correctly. The operating cost of an evaporative cooler is only a fraction of that of a refrigerated unit.
30 A student can be kept warm with a 150 watt infra red lamp fitted under the desk.
31 Localized under carpet heating gives economical armchair comfort.
32 People heating is more economical than space heating.-use radiators multi-heat radiant heaters, wall strip heaters, fan heaters.
33 Electric blankets are the cheapest form of bedroom heating.
REFRIGERATION
34 Select a fridge that uses waste heat for defrosting etc. These fridges are usually cheaper to operate.
35 Buy the size you need extra capacity uses extra power.
36 If you already have a chest or upright freezer buy an "all though” refrigerator instead of a fridge freezer combination.
37 Defrost before the ice build up is 1 cm thick.
38 Open the door only when necessary.
39 Make sure the door seals well. If a piece of paper will slide easily between the cabinet and the door seal is not good enough.
40 Keep dust and fluff brushed off the coils on the back or bottom of the fridge.
41 Put the fridge in a well ventilated position.
42 Place your fridge away from direct sunlight or any source of heat. Don't put hot food into a fridge or freezer.
CLOTHES AND WASHING
43 Don't buy a large machine if you don't need it. For the occasional big wash an extra cycle or two is cheaper than under using a large washer.
44 Adjust the water level to economically wash a partial load. Otherwise it is better to wait until you have a full load. But don't overload your machine.
45 Your washer may have features than can save your money. Soak cycles remove stubborn stains in wash cycle. Suds savers allow you to re use hot water.
46 Use correct type of detergent and cold or tepid water will wash clothes effectively.
LIGHTING
47 Good lighting means avoiding glare and gloom by using the right amount of light in the right way.
48 Use light translucent shades- opaque or dark shades require bigger lamps.
49 Use a good local light near the task. It is more effective and more efficient than a large central light.
50 Use fluorescent tubes. They use about a quarter of electricity used by ordinary globes and they last
About eight times as long. They CAN be switched on and off as often as you need without affecting operating cost.
CLOTHES DRYING
51 Use solar energy to dry your clothes -it costs nothing.
52 Operate your dryer using the fan alone. Only switch the heater on if it is really necessary. Vent the dryer outside the house and don't let lint block the vent.
53 never overload or under load the dryer - you get most economical operation with the correct load.
54 Switch off when the clothes are dry enough - over drying makes them feel harsh and waste electricity.
55 Tumble dryers are more effective than cabinet dryers.
WATER HEATING
56 Off peak low pressure storage heaters are generally the cheapest overall.
57 Don't allow dripping taps .Sixty drips a minutes means about 1200 liters a month drown the drain.
And you have paid for it to be heated.
58 Water restrictors and low flow shower nozzles will help to save water.
59 Insulate hot water pipes from storage heaters for at least a meter from the heater as heat can be conducted along these pipes and lost to the atmosphere.
60 Install a storage heater of 125 liters or more to run off peak tariff - which is about half the normal rate.
61 Normally you will use less water for shower than bath.
62 Fill your electric kettle or jug from the cold tap. Running off a lot of cold water from the hot pipes is wasteful and expensive.
63 Don't have you hot water set too 70 deg (c) is usually hot enough. Otherwise it costs more to heat the water and it loses more heat while being stored.
ACCESSORIES
64 Dimmers save power and enable you to obtain pleasant changes of mood in your lighting.
65 Use plug-in timers to control such things as frying pans, crock pots, radiators, lights and air conditioners.
66. Install insulation and attic fan
How Energy Recovery Ventilators Work:
How Energy Recovery Ventilators Work:
In the RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) energy exchange core, the exhausted stale air and the fresh ventilation air pass through multiple air passages separated by an engineered composite resin partition plate. Sensible heat transfers from the warmer to the cooler air stream. Also, latent energy (water vapor in the gas state) transfers from the wetter to the drier air stream. The fresh incoming air is automatically preheated or precooled depending on the season. This dramatically reduces the energy costs of ventilation.
This unique moisture transfer feature of the RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) energy exchange core eliminates condensate and frosting in most applications. No mechanical or electrical defrost systems are needed, which means higher heat recovery efficiencies, simpler installation and more reliable operation.
During the Heating Season:
Outdoor air is warmed to close-to-room temperature with heat that would otherwise be lost with the exhaust air. Indoor humidity levels are prevented from becoming too dry or too humid by the partial transfer of water vapor. Non-enthalpic heat recovery systems cannot deliver that benefit.
During the Air Conditioning Season:
RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) Core systems recover coolness and dryness from the exhausted air. Outside air brought in for ventilation is reduced in temperature and humidity because its heat and humidity is transferred to the exhaust air stream.
With summer-time humidity (latent load) being the largest portion of the cooling load associated with outside air ventilation, this humidity transfer is critical. Other plate-type heat exchangers can’t touch this major load. RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) makes it easier for your air conditioning system to keep you both cool and dry.
INSTALLATIONS, SIZES, AND SAVINGS - Click Here
Energy Recovery Ventilators
Typical
Sizing Calculator
Economy
Here is a Typical AirMulti Energy Recovery Ventilator Installation:
The installations below are examples of a residential and a commercial application
Why AirMulti Energy Recovery Ventilators
Are Your Best Indoor Air Quality Solution
Winter: Humidity level control without over drying.
Passive freeze protection design (dehumidified exhaust air stream depresses dew point temperature below actual temperature).
No condensate pan or drain for easier installation and no associated biological growths.
Summer: Reduced cooling load on the air conditioning equipment.
• Moderates humidity extremes associated with outside air ventilation.
Year
Round: Reliable fixed plate design versus heat wheel, heat pipe, metallic or plastic fixed plate alternatives.
• Low maintenance, no moving parts
• expandable designs for unlimited CFM
• 10 year energy exchange core warranty
• Proven in all climates
• Simple and easy to control
WHAT SIZE RENEWAIRE UNIT IS RIGHT FOR YOUR HOME?
If your air requirements are greater than 210 CFM, give us a call at 435-722-5877 or drop us an e-mail and we will design your system.
50 - 130 CFM EV- 130
100 - 200 CFM EV- 200
RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) ENERGY RECOVERY VENTILATORS ARE available in a wide range of sizes and configurations to suit virtually any application form residential to applied-commercial to institutional. Since its introduction in 1970, the RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) Core has provided energy-efficient ventilation in thousands of systems throughout North America and around the globe. In fact, more RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) Cores have been used in energy recovery ventilation systems than any other core in the world.
RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) ERVs SAVE UP TO seventy-five percent in energy costs
The RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) energy recovery system saves money by reducing the workload on your heating and cooling equipment when bringing in fresh air. The equipment can then be smaller than you would have to buy if you were using other types of ventilation equipment. In fact, you’ll save up to 75% in energy compared to typical ventilation systems, resulting in lower utility bills in both the heat of summer and the cold of winter.
RESIDENTIAL VENTILATION EXAMPLE (130 CFM)
Balanced Ventilator
(No energy recovered) RenewAire EV130
(75% energy recovered)
HEAT LOAD AT 10 F (indoor 70 F, 35% RH) 11,800 BTU/hour 4,100 BTU/hour
AC LOAD AT 95 F, 75 F WB (indoor 75 F, 50% RH) 6,100 8TU/hour 3,366 8TU/hour
TYPICAL FURNACE SIZE 60,000 BTU/hour 45,000 BTU/hour
TYPICAL AIR CONDITIONER SIZE 3 tons 2.5 tons
ANNUAL HEATING FUEL SAVINGS FOR NATURAL GAS
ANNUAL HEATING FUEL SAVINGS FOR ELECTRICITY $100/YR- LESS THAN 5-YEAR PAYBACK*
$295/YR- LESS THAN 2-YEAR PAYBACK*
* Example based on net additional cost for energy recovery.
Call us for an evaluation of possible savings in your area.
FLEXIBILITY: stand-alone or heating system installation.
RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) Energy Recovery Ventilators (ERV) can be installed as a stand-alone unit or connected to your heating system.
In the RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) energy exchange core, the exhausted stale air and the fresh ventilation air pass through multiple air passages separated by an engineered composite resin partition plate. Sensible heat transfers from the warmer to the cooler air stream. Also, latent energy (water vapor in the gas state) transfers from the wetter to the drier air stream. The fresh incoming air is automatically preheated or precooled depending on the season. This dramatically reduces the energy costs of ventilation.
This unique moisture transfer feature of the RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) energy exchange core eliminates condensate and frosting in most applications. No mechanical or electrical defrost systems are needed, which means higher heat recovery efficiencies, simpler installation and more reliable operation.
During the Heating Season:
Outdoor air is warmed to close-to-room temperature with heat that would otherwise be lost with the exhaust air. Indoor humidity levels are prevented from becoming too dry or too humid by the partial transfer of water vapor. Non-enthalpic heat recovery systems cannot deliver that benefit.
During the Air Conditioning Season:
RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) Core systems recover coolness and dryness from the exhausted air. Outside air brought in for ventilation is reduced in temperature and humidity because its heat and humidity is transferred to the exhaust air stream.
With summer-time humidity (latent load) being the largest portion of the cooling load associated with outside air ventilation, this humidity transfer is critical. Other plate-type heat exchangers can’t touch this major load. RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) makes it easier for your air conditioning system to keep you both cool and dry.
INSTALLATIONS, SIZES, AND SAVINGS - Click Here
Energy Recovery Ventilators
Typical
Sizing Calculator
Economy
Here is a Typical AirMulti Energy Recovery Ventilator Installation:
The installations below are examples of a residential and a commercial application
Why AirMulti Energy Recovery Ventilators
Are Your Best Indoor Air Quality Solution
Winter: Humidity level control without over drying.
Passive freeze protection design (dehumidified exhaust air stream depresses dew point temperature below actual temperature).
No condensate pan or drain for easier installation and no associated biological growths.
Summer: Reduced cooling load on the air conditioning equipment.
• Moderates humidity extremes associated with outside air ventilation.
Year
Round: Reliable fixed plate design versus heat wheel, heat pipe, metallic or plastic fixed plate alternatives.
• Low maintenance, no moving parts
• expandable designs for unlimited CFM
• 10 year energy exchange core warranty
• Proven in all climates
• Simple and easy to control
WHAT SIZE RENEWAIRE UNIT IS RIGHT FOR YOUR HOME?
If your air requirements are greater than 210 CFM, give us a call at 435-722-5877 or drop us an e-mail and we will design your system.
50 - 130 CFM EV- 130
100 - 200 CFM EV- 200
RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) ENERGY RECOVERY VENTILATORS ARE available in a wide range of sizes and configurations to suit virtually any application form residential to applied-commercial to institutional. Since its introduction in 1970, the RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) Core has provided energy-efficient ventilation in thousands of systems throughout North America and around the globe. In fact, more RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) Cores have been used in energy recovery ventilation systems than any other core in the world.
RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) ERVs SAVE UP TO seventy-five percent in energy costs
The RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) energy recovery system saves money by reducing the workload on your heating and cooling equipment when bringing in fresh air. The equipment can then be smaller than you would have to buy if you were using other types of ventilation equipment. In fact, you’ll save up to 75% in energy compared to typical ventilation systems, resulting in lower utility bills in both the heat of summer and the cold of winter.
RESIDENTIAL VENTILATION EXAMPLE (130 CFM)
Balanced Ventilator
(No energy recovered) RenewAire EV130
(75% energy recovered)
HEAT LOAD AT 10 F (indoor 70 F, 35% RH) 11,800 BTU/hour 4,100 BTU/hour
AC LOAD AT 95 F, 75 F WB (indoor 75 F, 50% RH) 6,100 8TU/hour 3,366 8TU/hour
TYPICAL FURNACE SIZE 60,000 BTU/hour 45,000 BTU/hour
TYPICAL AIR CONDITIONER SIZE 3 tons 2.5 tons
ANNUAL HEATING FUEL SAVINGS FOR NATURAL GAS
ANNUAL HEATING FUEL SAVINGS FOR ELECTRICITY $100/YR- LESS THAN 5-YEAR PAYBACK*
$295/YR- LESS THAN 2-YEAR PAYBACK*
* Example based on net additional cost for energy recovery.
Call us for an evaluation of possible savings in your area.
FLEXIBILITY: stand-alone or heating system installation.
RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) Energy Recovery Ventilators (ERV) can be installed as a stand-alone unit or connected to your heating system.
Whole House Fan
Whole House Fan
Energy technical bulletin 10
Prepared by Southface Energy Institute, for more information contact Southface Energy Institute, 241 Pine St., Atlanta, GA 30308, 404/872-3549, www.southface.org
For Georgia Environmental Facilities Authority . 2080 Equitable Bldg., 100 Peachtree St., NW . Atlanta, GA 30303 . 404/656-5176
þ Build and use fan covers
See diagrams for construction details.
Because the louvers are leaky, a cover should be constructed to airseal and insulate this hole during the
seasons when the fan is not in operation. The cover may be installed from the attic side if attic access is
easily available or from the house side. Both covers could be included in excessively hot or cold climates.
Homeowners must remember to remove cover(s) before operating the fan and to replace cover(s) during
seasons when the fan is not in use.
Cooling strategies
In the summertime, the air inside a home is heated during the hot part of the day. At night especially, and during the morning and late evening, the outside air is often cooler and can be used to replace the inside air. It is important to open all or at least several windows, even if only partially, to provide adequate airflow. Closing windows in unused rooms will create higher velocity air movement in occupied rooms.
Running the whole house fan whenever outdoor temperatures are lower than indoor will cool the house.
Operate the whole house fan throughout the evening to cool interior materials. An approximate rule of thumb would be to use the whole house fan when outside temperatures are below 85ºF. As daytime temperatures rise, turn off the whole house fan. The cool room materials (along with ceiling or circulating fans which create an additional cooling effect) will help keep the interior more comfortable.
Installing and using a whole house fan
Why use a whole house fan?
A whole house fan is a simple and inexpensive method of cooling a house. The fan draws cool outdoor air inside through open windows and exhausts hot room air through the attic to the outside. The result is excellent ventilation, lower indoor temperatures, and improved evaporative cooling.
What are the benefits?
A whole house fan can be used as the sole means of cooling or to reduce the need for air conditioning. Outside air temperature and humidity dictate times when the whole house fan would be favorable over air conditioning. If both methods of cooling are present, a seasonal use of the whole house fan (during spring and fall) may yield the optimum combination of comfort and cost.
þ First cost benefit
Equipment cost for whole house fan = $150 - $350
Equipment cost for window unit AC = $250 - $750
Equipment cost for central AC = $2,000 - $4,000
þ Ventilation
A whole house fan can be used to change the air in the house and vent odors quickly.
þ Economics of operation
Operating a properly sized 2-ton, 10 SEER air conditioner in Atlanta, Georgia costs over $250 per
cooling season (1250 hours), based on 8.5¢/kwh, or roughly 20¢ per hour of runtime. A large 18,000 Btu/hr
window unit air conditioner with a 6 EER costs more than 25¢ to operate for one hour.
By contrast, the whole house fan has a motor in the ¼ to ½ hp range, uses between 120 to 600 watts, and
costs around 1-5¢ per hour of use.
What are the drawbacks?
þ Temperature, humidity, and dust
A whole house fan has some drawbacks: the fan can only cool the inside of a house to the outside temperature; unlike an air conditioner, it does not dehumidify; and dust and pollen can be brought into the house.
Maximize your savings
During the winter months (and summer when air conditioning is used), a whole house fan represents a potential energy loss because it is essentially a large, uninsulated hole in the ceiling. Standard fan louvers do not insulate or seal tightly.
Whole house fan with attic-side cover. Whole house fans have either a direct drive motor (pictured) or a belt and pulley drive to turn the fan blades.
Prepared by Southface Energy Institute, for more information contact Southface Energy Institute, 241 Pine St., Atlanta, GA 30308, 404/872-3549, www.southface.org
Truss chord mounting bracket. Line up brackets. Do not cut truss chord.
Use house wrap tape, spray foam, or caulk to seal fan frame to truss frame. Airseal any gaps between fan box and truss frame so that when fan is running, no attic air is pulled across the fan.
Construct .H. brackets from 2x4.s to create frame support for fan (see detail on next page)
Ceiling
Caulk to seal louver frame flange to ceiling
IMPORTANT:
Ensure louvers function properly (no binding or sticking)
VELCRO. - Helps to seal and attach cover used in winter caulk cracks and seams
Rigid board insulation (¾" - 1" thick) covered with white contact paper
Mount cover to louver with VELCRO. And bolt with washer and wing nut Hole, Washer, & Wing nut
Threaded Bolt Louver cover detail ¼"-20 nut threaded all the way up to hold bolt to the louver section. Wing nut and washer hold rigid board insulation tightly against louver.
Installing a whole house fan
Louver cover materials list:
. 30" x 30" piece of ¾"- 1" rigid insulation
(minimum thickness)
. White contact paper
. Drill with ¼" bit
. 1¼" long, ¼" - 20 threaded bolt
. Fender washer with ¼" opening
. ¼" - 20 wing nut
. VELCRO. with adhesive fasteners
Prepared by Southface Energy Institute, for more information contact Southface Energy Institute, 241 Pine St., Atlanta, GA 30308, 404/872-3549, www.southface.org
How to build an attic-side box cover
A typical whole house fan has a 30" diameter blade with a sheet metal cowling of 31" to allow for blade clearance. An attic-side box cover may be constructed from a 4' x 4' piece of 1" rigid fiberglass duct board. The box will be 33" square with 1" thick walls (inside dimension of 31" x 31"). It will be 6½" deep. Adjust dimensions to actual fan size.
1" wide strip of fiberglass material scraped away without cutting silver backing
Add silver duct tape to corners .H. brackets make fan installation easy. A fan with a 34" base (30" blade) will work with the dimensions shown
Use .H. brackets to provide proper support
When installing a whole house fan, be sure to provide proper support and seal the unit into the rough opening in the ceiling. Never cut a truss chord; wooden .H. brackets installed between the trusses create a framed box to raise the fan above the truss system. The louvers must be able to operate freely (open/close) and care must be undertaken to prevent binding or misalignment.
Attic-side box cover materials list:
. 48" x 48" piece of 1" fiberglass duct board . Silver duct tape or house wrap tape
. Tools: measuring tape, straight edge, utility knife
. Permanent marker to label box
. Wear gloves and eye protection when working with duct board Label Box
.WHOLE HOUSE FAN COVER.
.REMOVE BEFORE OPERATING FAN.
.REPLACE WHEN NOT USING FAN.
Helpful reminders
Attach labels to remind users to remove energy-saving covers.
þ Label the attic-side box cover
.WHOLE HOUSE FAN COVER.,
.REMOVE BEFORE OPERATING FAN.,
.REPLACE WHEN NOT USING FAN..
þ Label the fan switch
Cut out and discard four corners
Whole House Fan
Energy technical bulletin 10
Prepared by Southface Energy Institute, for more information contact Southface Energy Institute, 241 Pine St., Atlanta, GA 30308, 404/872-3549, www.southface.org
For Georgia Environmental Facilities Authority . 2080 Equitable Bldg., 100 Peachtree St., NW . Atlanta, GA 30303 . 404/656-5176
Selecting a whole house fan
þ Fan speed
Two-speed fans permit the entire house to be ventilated quickly on high speed (such as when the occupants first arrive at home) and then provide gentle air circulation at the lower, quieter speed. Variable speed units offer more flexibility in selecting the desired air movement.
þ Control options
Controls may be simple on/off pull or wall switches, multi-speed rotary wall switches, or a timer which
automatically shuts off the fan at pre-selected time intervals.
þ Louvers
Dampers or louvers typically operate automatically whenever the fan operates. Motorized dampers are
available but are not necessary if the louvers are correctly installed and maintained. Proper opening and
closing of louvers is critical to a whole house fans performance.
þ Motor mounts and noise
A direct drive unit has its fan blades attached directly to the motors shaft. It is usually less expensive to buy
and operates at higher rpm’s than its belt driven counterpart. A belt driven unit, which typically features
a motor driving a slower moving, larger diameter fan with four or more blades, may be quieter, but will
require maintenance of the pulley and belt.
HOT AIR OUT COOL AIR IN
In addition to sizing a whole house fan correctly, it is important that ALL penetrations between the attic and
living space are sealed and that the attic is properly ventilated. A central hallway, or a stairway in a two-story
house, is the most common location.
Sizing a whole house fan
Determining the amount of airflow in cubic feet per minute (cfm) that the whole house fan should provide involves a simple calculation. Multiply the total gross square footage of the house (include upstairs area) by the ceiling height (typically 8 feet). Select a fan that delivers between one half to one times that amount of cfm at 0.1" static pressure.
For example, a 25'x40', one-story home is 1,000 square feet and would need an 8 x 1,000 x ½ = 4,000 cfm fan or better. A manufacturer sells a two-speed unit that delivers 4,500 cfm at the high setting (240 watts) and 3,200 cfm at low (120 watts); this unit should be adequate.
Installation tips and concerns
þ Seal penetrations and vent attic adequately Caulk all penetrations between the attic and living
space, i.e., electrical boxes for ceiling light fixtures, loose attic hatches, large cutouts for plumbing vents,
exposed beams, and recessed lights. A whole house fan creates a positive pressure in your attic and it is
important that air from the attic is not forced back into the living space through cracks and gaps.
Guidelines for sufficient attic vent area is one square foot of net free vent area per 750 cfm of fan airflow,
(4,500 / 750 = 6 square feet for the example above).
Continuous ridge and soffit vents are usually more than adequate. Vents with insect screens may have a
net free area equivalent to ½ of the total open area depending upon the size of the holes in the screen
area. Insulation should be installed directly against the fan box frame. Blown-in insulation may require
the sides of the fan box to be raised (with baffles) to prevent interference.
þ Avoid backdrafts
Care should be taken to avoid backdrafting combustion appliances that are installed in the conditioned space.
It is strongly recommended that combustion appliances NOT be installed in such a manner that they use room air for combustion. The whole house fan is capable of pulling large quantities of air from the home and,
particularly if not enough windows are open, may easily backdraft a water heater located inside a louvered
closet door.
þ Label your switches Controls should be placed higher on walls than light switches to avoid confusion and to keep them out of the reach of small children. Labels over switches are recommended to remind users to remove any energy saving covers and to open at least two or more windows before using.
Energy technical bulletin 10
Prepared by Southface Energy Institute, for more information contact Southface Energy Institute, 241 Pine St., Atlanta, GA 30308, 404/872-3549, www.southface.org
For Georgia Environmental Facilities Authority . 2080 Equitable Bldg., 100 Peachtree St., NW . Atlanta, GA 30303 . 404/656-5176
þ Build and use fan covers
See diagrams for construction details.
Because the louvers are leaky, a cover should be constructed to airseal and insulate this hole during the
seasons when the fan is not in operation. The cover may be installed from the attic side if attic access is
easily available or from the house side. Both covers could be included in excessively hot or cold climates.
Homeowners must remember to remove cover(s) before operating the fan and to replace cover(s) during
seasons when the fan is not in use.
Cooling strategies
In the summertime, the air inside a home is heated during the hot part of the day. At night especially, and during the morning and late evening, the outside air is often cooler and can be used to replace the inside air. It is important to open all or at least several windows, even if only partially, to provide adequate airflow. Closing windows in unused rooms will create higher velocity air movement in occupied rooms.
Running the whole house fan whenever outdoor temperatures are lower than indoor will cool the house.
Operate the whole house fan throughout the evening to cool interior materials. An approximate rule of thumb would be to use the whole house fan when outside temperatures are below 85ºF. As daytime temperatures rise, turn off the whole house fan. The cool room materials (along with ceiling or circulating fans which create an additional cooling effect) will help keep the interior more comfortable.
Installing and using a whole house fan
Why use a whole house fan?
A whole house fan is a simple and inexpensive method of cooling a house. The fan draws cool outdoor air inside through open windows and exhausts hot room air through the attic to the outside. The result is excellent ventilation, lower indoor temperatures, and improved evaporative cooling.
What are the benefits?
A whole house fan can be used as the sole means of cooling or to reduce the need for air conditioning. Outside air temperature and humidity dictate times when the whole house fan would be favorable over air conditioning. If both methods of cooling are present, a seasonal use of the whole house fan (during spring and fall) may yield the optimum combination of comfort and cost.
þ First cost benefit
Equipment cost for whole house fan = $150 - $350
Equipment cost for window unit AC = $250 - $750
Equipment cost for central AC = $2,000 - $4,000
þ Ventilation
A whole house fan can be used to change the air in the house and vent odors quickly.
þ Economics of operation
Operating a properly sized 2-ton, 10 SEER air conditioner in Atlanta, Georgia costs over $250 per
cooling season (1250 hours), based on 8.5¢/kwh, or roughly 20¢ per hour of runtime. A large 18,000 Btu/hr
window unit air conditioner with a 6 EER costs more than 25¢ to operate for one hour.
By contrast, the whole house fan has a motor in the ¼ to ½ hp range, uses between 120 to 600 watts, and
costs around 1-5¢ per hour of use.
What are the drawbacks?
þ Temperature, humidity, and dust
A whole house fan has some drawbacks: the fan can only cool the inside of a house to the outside temperature; unlike an air conditioner, it does not dehumidify; and dust and pollen can be brought into the house.
Maximize your savings
During the winter months (and summer when air conditioning is used), a whole house fan represents a potential energy loss because it is essentially a large, uninsulated hole in the ceiling. Standard fan louvers do not insulate or seal tightly.
Whole house fan with attic-side cover. Whole house fans have either a direct drive motor (pictured) or a belt and pulley drive to turn the fan blades.
Prepared by Southface Energy Institute, for more information contact Southface Energy Institute, 241 Pine St., Atlanta, GA 30308, 404/872-3549, www.southface.org
Truss chord mounting bracket. Line up brackets. Do not cut truss chord.
Use house wrap tape, spray foam, or caulk to seal fan frame to truss frame. Airseal any gaps between fan box and truss frame so that when fan is running, no attic air is pulled across the fan.
Construct .H. brackets from 2x4.s to create frame support for fan (see detail on next page)
Ceiling
Caulk to seal louver frame flange to ceiling
IMPORTANT:
Ensure louvers function properly (no binding or sticking)
VELCRO. - Helps to seal and attach cover used in winter caulk cracks and seams
Rigid board insulation (¾" - 1" thick) covered with white contact paper
Mount cover to louver with VELCRO. And bolt with washer and wing nut Hole, Washer, & Wing nut
Threaded Bolt Louver cover detail ¼"-20 nut threaded all the way up to hold bolt to the louver section. Wing nut and washer hold rigid board insulation tightly against louver.
Installing a whole house fan
Louver cover materials list:
. 30" x 30" piece of ¾"- 1" rigid insulation
(minimum thickness)
. White contact paper
. Drill with ¼" bit
. 1¼" long, ¼" - 20 threaded bolt
. Fender washer with ¼" opening
. ¼" - 20 wing nut
. VELCRO. with adhesive fasteners
Prepared by Southface Energy Institute, for more information contact Southface Energy Institute, 241 Pine St., Atlanta, GA 30308, 404/872-3549, www.southface.org
How to build an attic-side box cover
A typical whole house fan has a 30" diameter blade with a sheet metal cowling of 31" to allow for blade clearance. An attic-side box cover may be constructed from a 4' x 4' piece of 1" rigid fiberglass duct board. The box will be 33" square with 1" thick walls (inside dimension of 31" x 31"). It will be 6½" deep. Adjust dimensions to actual fan size.
1" wide strip of fiberglass material scraped away without cutting silver backing
Add silver duct tape to corners .H. brackets make fan installation easy. A fan with a 34" base (30" blade) will work with the dimensions shown
Use .H. brackets to provide proper support
When installing a whole house fan, be sure to provide proper support and seal the unit into the rough opening in the ceiling. Never cut a truss chord; wooden .H. brackets installed between the trusses create a framed box to raise the fan above the truss system. The louvers must be able to operate freely (open/close) and care must be undertaken to prevent binding or misalignment.
Attic-side box cover materials list:
. 48" x 48" piece of 1" fiberglass duct board . Silver duct tape or house wrap tape
. Tools: measuring tape, straight edge, utility knife
. Permanent marker to label box
. Wear gloves and eye protection when working with duct board Label Box
.WHOLE HOUSE FAN COVER.
.REMOVE BEFORE OPERATING FAN.
.REPLACE WHEN NOT USING FAN.
Helpful reminders
Attach labels to remind users to remove energy-saving covers.
þ Label the attic-side box cover
.WHOLE HOUSE FAN COVER.,
.REMOVE BEFORE OPERATING FAN.,
.REPLACE WHEN NOT USING FAN..
þ Label the fan switch
Cut out and discard four corners
Whole House Fan
Energy technical bulletin 10
Prepared by Southface Energy Institute, for more information contact Southface Energy Institute, 241 Pine St., Atlanta, GA 30308, 404/872-3549, www.southface.org
For Georgia Environmental Facilities Authority . 2080 Equitable Bldg., 100 Peachtree St., NW . Atlanta, GA 30303 . 404/656-5176
Selecting a whole house fan
þ Fan speed
Two-speed fans permit the entire house to be ventilated quickly on high speed (such as when the occupants first arrive at home) and then provide gentle air circulation at the lower, quieter speed. Variable speed units offer more flexibility in selecting the desired air movement.
þ Control options
Controls may be simple on/off pull or wall switches, multi-speed rotary wall switches, or a timer which
automatically shuts off the fan at pre-selected time intervals.
þ Louvers
Dampers or louvers typically operate automatically whenever the fan operates. Motorized dampers are
available but are not necessary if the louvers are correctly installed and maintained. Proper opening and
closing of louvers is critical to a whole house fans performance.
þ Motor mounts and noise
A direct drive unit has its fan blades attached directly to the motors shaft. It is usually less expensive to buy
and operates at higher rpm’s than its belt driven counterpart. A belt driven unit, which typically features
a motor driving a slower moving, larger diameter fan with four or more blades, may be quieter, but will
require maintenance of the pulley and belt.
HOT AIR OUT COOL AIR IN
In addition to sizing a whole house fan correctly, it is important that ALL penetrations between the attic and
living space are sealed and that the attic is properly ventilated. A central hallway, or a stairway in a two-story
house, is the most common location.
Sizing a whole house fan
Determining the amount of airflow in cubic feet per minute (cfm) that the whole house fan should provide involves a simple calculation. Multiply the total gross square footage of the house (include upstairs area) by the ceiling height (typically 8 feet). Select a fan that delivers between one half to one times that amount of cfm at 0.1" static pressure.
For example, a 25'x40', one-story home is 1,000 square feet and would need an 8 x 1,000 x ½ = 4,000 cfm fan or better. A manufacturer sells a two-speed unit that delivers 4,500 cfm at the high setting (240 watts) and 3,200 cfm at low (120 watts); this unit should be adequate.
Installation tips and concerns
þ Seal penetrations and vent attic adequately Caulk all penetrations between the attic and living
space, i.e., electrical boxes for ceiling light fixtures, loose attic hatches, large cutouts for plumbing vents,
exposed beams, and recessed lights. A whole house fan creates a positive pressure in your attic and it is
important that air from the attic is not forced back into the living space through cracks and gaps.
Guidelines for sufficient attic vent area is one square foot of net free vent area per 750 cfm of fan airflow,
(4,500 / 750 = 6 square feet for the example above).
Continuous ridge and soffit vents are usually more than adequate. Vents with insect screens may have a
net free area equivalent to ½ of the total open area depending upon the size of the holes in the screen
area. Insulation should be installed directly against the fan box frame. Blown-in insulation may require
the sides of the fan box to be raised (with baffles) to prevent interference.
þ Avoid backdrafts
Care should be taken to avoid backdrafting combustion appliances that are installed in the conditioned space.
It is strongly recommended that combustion appliances NOT be installed in such a manner that they use room air for combustion. The whole house fan is capable of pulling large quantities of air from the home and,
particularly if not enough windows are open, may easily backdraft a water heater located inside a louvered
closet door.
þ Label your switches Controls should be placed higher on walls than light switches to avoid confusion and to keep them out of the reach of small children. Labels over switches are recommended to remind users to remove any energy saving covers and to open at least two or more windows before using.
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