You must serve as an example in implementing energy efficiency.
I think if corporate America is serious about energy conservation; it must start with people at the top and roll down from there to the rest of the executives and employees.
In order to accomplish such an important mission as energy conservation every executive and employee has to believe that what he is doing is the right thing.
They must practice the same attitude at home and implement energy conservation at home. This attitude will carry on to the workplace.
First thing that must be done is, each employee should be asked what has he/she done in their own lives to conserve energy, and than if the answer is positive advance the initiative from there, if not an education process must be implemented to drive the process home once this process has been achieved, it will be easier to get everyone to participate in energy conservation.
The motive and behavior has to come from within each individual person – it must become part of a routine practice – it must become a way of life – reducing waste in any form.
In today’s rising cost of energy – conservation must become a national theme.
Jay Draiman, Energy Analyst
Tuesday, August 9, 2011
Natural Cooling with Whole House Fans
Natural Cooling with Whole House Fans
A whole house fan is a quiet, natural and pleasant alternative to keep your home cool and comfortable and while saving big on home energy.
Whole house fans can reduce or even eliminate air conditioning use by taking advantage of the natural cooling cycles that nature provides. Here's how they work: The whole house fan is mounted between your living space and the attic, and is operated in the evening, night-time and morning, when outside air is cool. The device draws cool fresh air in through open windows while exhausting hot stale air out through attic roof vents. This circulation creates a fresh and comfortable living environment and, importantly, draws heat out of the structure to reduce/delay heat loading for the next day.
Cool, fresh air is drawn inside while hot, stale air is exhausted through the roof vents.
Much improved over old-fashioned designs
Traditional whole house fans are big, noisy and difficult to install. They often require fussy maintenance and are poorly sealed so, in colder climates, can create problems of heat loss and attic condensation in the winter. AirScape whole house fans represent a breakthrough in usability and practicality. They are compact, VERY QUIET, very easy to install and require no maintenance. Plus, they have automatic, insulated doors so they are safe and convenient to use in four-season climates. And total energy use is equivalent to just one or two light bulbs!
The AirScape's unique design allows for installation within your existing joist configuration.
Great for most climates
While especially effective in dry desert climates, whole house fans can be great in other climates as well, though often in shoulder seasons and/or working in conjunction with AC. We've sold AirScape whole house fans all over the country, including New Orleans, Florida and Maine. AirScape fans use less than one tenth the energy of typical AC units, so in almost any climate an AirScape fan can help reduce your energy consumption while you enjoy fresh, natural breezes rather than recycled indoor air.
An AirScape whole house fan:
• saves energy with a smart, elegant cooling that is good for the environment
• solves the problem of excessive heat accumulation in upstairs bedrooms
• reduces or eliminates dependence on expensive and wasteful A/C
• allows you to enjoy fresh air and more natural, livable home
A whole house fan is a quiet, natural and pleasant alternative to keep your home cool and comfortable and while saving big on home energy.
Whole house fans can reduce or even eliminate air conditioning use by taking advantage of the natural cooling cycles that nature provides. Here's how they work: The whole house fan is mounted between your living space and the attic, and is operated in the evening, night-time and morning, when outside air is cool. The device draws cool fresh air in through open windows while exhausting hot stale air out through attic roof vents. This circulation creates a fresh and comfortable living environment and, importantly, draws heat out of the structure to reduce/delay heat loading for the next day.
Cool, fresh air is drawn inside while hot, stale air is exhausted through the roof vents.
Much improved over old-fashioned designs
Traditional whole house fans are big, noisy and difficult to install. They often require fussy maintenance and are poorly sealed so, in colder climates, can create problems of heat loss and attic condensation in the winter. AirScape whole house fans represent a breakthrough in usability and practicality. They are compact, VERY QUIET, very easy to install and require no maintenance. Plus, they have automatic, insulated doors so they are safe and convenient to use in four-season climates. And total energy use is equivalent to just one or two light bulbs!
The AirScape's unique design allows for installation within your existing joist configuration.
Great for most climates
While especially effective in dry desert climates, whole house fans can be great in other climates as well, though often in shoulder seasons and/or working in conjunction with AC. We've sold AirScape whole house fans all over the country, including New Orleans, Florida and Maine. AirScape fans use less than one tenth the energy of typical AC units, so in almost any climate an AirScape fan can help reduce your energy consumption while you enjoy fresh, natural breezes rather than recycled indoor air.
An AirScape whole house fan:
• saves energy with a smart, elegant cooling that is good for the environment
• solves the problem of excessive heat accumulation in upstairs bedrooms
• reduces or eliminates dependence on expensive and wasteful A/C
• allows you to enjoy fresh air and more natural, livable home
ATTIC FANS AND WHOLE HOUSE FANS CAN SAVE YOU MONEY ON AIR-CONDITIONING
ATTIC FANS AND WHOLE HOUSE FANS CAN SAVE YOU MONEY ON AIR-CONDITIONING
Efficiency in cooling is the name of the game for homeowners who like to stay cool. One source of added efficiency often overlooked is the attic fan. There are two types of attic fans, one cools only the attic and is properly called an attic fan, the other one is really a whole house fan and cools the whole house using outside air instead of air conditioning. Both fans can be used with satisfying results.
WHOLE HOUSE FANS
Many people use whole house fans as an alternative to air-conditioning. A whole house fan is most effective when outside air temperatures are below 82ºF. It brings a cooling breeze in through the windows of the home and cools more efficiently than an air-conditioner (Click on picture to enlarge).
Some times central air-conditioning is too expensive to install. When a house has been originally built with hot water radiator heat, installing central air-conditioning can be cost prohibitive because there is not any ductwork to distribute air throughout the house. Also, a whole house fan only uses about ¼ of the power that a central air-conditioning system does. Some people just don’t like air conditioning or may want the option of using outside air for cooling and ventilating their homes. Whole house fans draw massive amounts of air through a home. Moving air feels cooler than still air so high volumes of air are usually preferred.
One objection that some people have with whole house fans is the sound that is created when running. There are basically three types of noise created: air noise, motor vibration and shutter rattle. A well-engineered whole house fan will address all of these issues.
Generally speaking the more blades a fan blade has the quieter it will be, (five blades are better that four). Each blade does less work and thereby creates a smoother, even sound as opposed to fewer blades where the sound is choppy and irritating. One strategy for sizing a whole house fan for a house is to get the largest fan that will fit into the ceiling area of a hallway where a fan would typically be installed. Any size fan will be quieter when run at a slower speed; so by getting a large fan that has a low speed you can get less noise and still move a high volume of air because of the large size. Running on low speed also creates less wear and tear on the fan and saves electricity. Better whole house fans will have the whole fan isolated from the homes framing with foam strips or rubber mountings that will not transmit sound into the framing of the house. This keeps the motor hum from resounding through the framing and drywall of the home. It is better to have no direct mechanical connection to the house framing. Heavier fans are better because they rest on foam weather stripping held down only by their own weight.
Higher quality shutters will be heavier and have connecting rods connecting vanes of the shutter so they act together. This prevents one or more vanes from oscillating and possibly clapping shut and re-opening. Also, a better shutter will have an adjustable spring that will assist in opening the shutter as the fan sucks it open and cushion and slow the closing when the fan is shut off. This prevents the shutters from creating a loud thump when shutting when the fan is turned off. Some shutters even have a felt strip at the edge of each vane to seal in air when the fan is off and to silence the shutter when it closes.
Having as timer is also a good idea. A timer will let the fan run a pre set length of time so that you can set it before going to bed an have it shut off automatically when you feel it may get too cold at night. Thermostats are not a good idea because they could turn the fan on when no one is home and preparation hasn’t been made for it to come on. Windows must be opened first. Also, a fire in the fireplace could trigger it to come on unexpectedly with danger of sucking flames in from the fireplace. Obviously, some caution must be used when operating a whole house fan. The drill is really pretty simple: turn off heating and air-conditioning, open windows, no fires in fireplace and then turn the whole house fan on. Without opening windows first, some air could also be drawn down other vents or chimneys for heating and water heat, possibly blowing out pilot lights.
The amount of work required to install a whole house fan varies from house to house, but can generally be retrofitted into an existing house by a professional in about 8 to 16 man-hours. One major variable is the venting, if you plan on running the fan on high speed, (most people do) you need to make sure that there is at least enough exhaust venting for high speed setting. Fans are rated by cubic feet of air per minute or cfm. A good rule of thumb is to provide one square foot of net free venting area for every 750 cfm. Net free venting is the area after subtracting for louvers and screens. Generally the vents are roof vents, louvered wall vents or eave vents. Some roof vents and some eave vents have their respective net free venting areas stamped right on them. Ridge vents, depending on type, are not as good for providing the bulk of vent area needed although they do help slightly.
One strategy is to get an attic fan with a whole house fan. Special timer switches (DPST) are available and when installed they will turn on both fans to help expel some of the air being pushed into the attic. It is important to use only this type of switch for this application, because with a normal switch the attic fan thermostat would back feed and run the whole house fan even when the homeowner has not selected the on position for the whole house fan switch.
Better whole house fans have a welded frame. Effectively they are one-piece construction using heavy gauge steel for the venturi and motor and fan supports. This type of construction is better because it will never loosen up or begin to squeak. The only problem might occur if the installer was trying to fit the fan into a very small attic space; it may not fit through the opening when turned up on end before hitting the roof. Fans that can be disassembled can be fit through and then reassembled in the attic. One strategy for installing a welded frame fan into a smaller attic is to use a larger shutter than is required so the fan could be lifted into the attic in a horizontal or flat position and then supported by ledger strips around inside of opening. The larger shutter would then fill the larger opening that was made in order to lift the fan through in flat position.
To visit one source for higher quality whole house fans, click here....
ATTIC FANS - SOLAR & ELECTRIC
When the temperature climbs above 82ºF and you decide to use air conditioning, you can shut the windows and crank up the air knowing that the attic fan will save up to 30% on cooling costs by getting rid of trapped super hot air that tends to collect in attics and cause heat to back up into the home. (Click on picture to enlarge)
Attic temperatures can get up to 150ºF without an attic fan. Attic fans create a positive air-flow through your attic that does not rely on wind or require excessive passive venting. Excessive passive venting can cause excessive moisture infiltration in the form of snow or rain. The attic fan is normally mounted up on the roof of the home toward the back about two feet down from the peak. It goes on and off automatically with a thermostat, so it only runs when it is beneficial. The attic fan has a flashing that fits in with the shingles and is water-proof. Attic fans use less than 300 Watts, and offer these important advantages:
1. Lowers upstairs room temperatures by 10º.
2. Lengthens roof life by keeping shingles cooler.
3. With an optional humidistat, keep attics dry during winter months.
4. Saves up to 30% on air-conditioning costs.
The exact savings obtained depends on several factors like: the color of your roof, if the home is shaded, the amount of insulation you have, and the efficiency of your cooling system. Ideally, an attic fan installation will pay for itself within 3 years. A high quality attic fan is recommended. A heavy screen is required to stop pests. All metal construction is preferred as plastic fans do not hold up as well and over time will crack. A quality thermostat is also essential to save from climbing up into the attic for resetting. A firestat, which shuts the attic fan off for extremely high temperatures, is needed in case of a home fire. A permanently lubricated motor, insures quiet, maintenance-free operation.
There are 2 types of attic fans: roof top, and gable-end. Attic fans can be electrical or solar powered.
For more information on how you can obtain an Attic Fan or Whole House Fan for your home or for customers' homes, please click one of the links on the left.
Efficiency in cooling is the name of the game for homeowners who like to stay cool. One source of added efficiency often overlooked is the attic fan. There are two types of attic fans, one cools only the attic and is properly called an attic fan, the other one is really a whole house fan and cools the whole house using outside air instead of air conditioning. Both fans can be used with satisfying results.
WHOLE HOUSE FANS
Many people use whole house fans as an alternative to air-conditioning. A whole house fan is most effective when outside air temperatures are below 82ºF. It brings a cooling breeze in through the windows of the home and cools more efficiently than an air-conditioner (Click on picture to enlarge).
Some times central air-conditioning is too expensive to install. When a house has been originally built with hot water radiator heat, installing central air-conditioning can be cost prohibitive because there is not any ductwork to distribute air throughout the house. Also, a whole house fan only uses about ¼ of the power that a central air-conditioning system does. Some people just don’t like air conditioning or may want the option of using outside air for cooling and ventilating their homes. Whole house fans draw massive amounts of air through a home. Moving air feels cooler than still air so high volumes of air are usually preferred.
One objection that some people have with whole house fans is the sound that is created when running. There are basically three types of noise created: air noise, motor vibration and shutter rattle. A well-engineered whole house fan will address all of these issues.
Generally speaking the more blades a fan blade has the quieter it will be, (five blades are better that four). Each blade does less work and thereby creates a smoother, even sound as opposed to fewer blades where the sound is choppy and irritating. One strategy for sizing a whole house fan for a house is to get the largest fan that will fit into the ceiling area of a hallway where a fan would typically be installed. Any size fan will be quieter when run at a slower speed; so by getting a large fan that has a low speed you can get less noise and still move a high volume of air because of the large size. Running on low speed also creates less wear and tear on the fan and saves electricity. Better whole house fans will have the whole fan isolated from the homes framing with foam strips or rubber mountings that will not transmit sound into the framing of the house. This keeps the motor hum from resounding through the framing and drywall of the home. It is better to have no direct mechanical connection to the house framing. Heavier fans are better because they rest on foam weather stripping held down only by their own weight.
Higher quality shutters will be heavier and have connecting rods connecting vanes of the shutter so they act together. This prevents one or more vanes from oscillating and possibly clapping shut and re-opening. Also, a better shutter will have an adjustable spring that will assist in opening the shutter as the fan sucks it open and cushion and slow the closing when the fan is shut off. This prevents the shutters from creating a loud thump when shutting when the fan is turned off. Some shutters even have a felt strip at the edge of each vane to seal in air when the fan is off and to silence the shutter when it closes.
Having as timer is also a good idea. A timer will let the fan run a pre set length of time so that you can set it before going to bed an have it shut off automatically when you feel it may get too cold at night. Thermostats are not a good idea because they could turn the fan on when no one is home and preparation hasn’t been made for it to come on. Windows must be opened first. Also, a fire in the fireplace could trigger it to come on unexpectedly with danger of sucking flames in from the fireplace. Obviously, some caution must be used when operating a whole house fan. The drill is really pretty simple: turn off heating and air-conditioning, open windows, no fires in fireplace and then turn the whole house fan on. Without opening windows first, some air could also be drawn down other vents or chimneys for heating and water heat, possibly blowing out pilot lights.
The amount of work required to install a whole house fan varies from house to house, but can generally be retrofitted into an existing house by a professional in about 8 to 16 man-hours. One major variable is the venting, if you plan on running the fan on high speed, (most people do) you need to make sure that there is at least enough exhaust venting for high speed setting. Fans are rated by cubic feet of air per minute or cfm. A good rule of thumb is to provide one square foot of net free venting area for every 750 cfm. Net free venting is the area after subtracting for louvers and screens. Generally the vents are roof vents, louvered wall vents or eave vents. Some roof vents and some eave vents have their respective net free venting areas stamped right on them. Ridge vents, depending on type, are not as good for providing the bulk of vent area needed although they do help slightly.
One strategy is to get an attic fan with a whole house fan. Special timer switches (DPST) are available and when installed they will turn on both fans to help expel some of the air being pushed into the attic. It is important to use only this type of switch for this application, because with a normal switch the attic fan thermostat would back feed and run the whole house fan even when the homeowner has not selected the on position for the whole house fan switch.
Better whole house fans have a welded frame. Effectively they are one-piece construction using heavy gauge steel for the venturi and motor and fan supports. This type of construction is better because it will never loosen up or begin to squeak. The only problem might occur if the installer was trying to fit the fan into a very small attic space; it may not fit through the opening when turned up on end before hitting the roof. Fans that can be disassembled can be fit through and then reassembled in the attic. One strategy for installing a welded frame fan into a smaller attic is to use a larger shutter than is required so the fan could be lifted into the attic in a horizontal or flat position and then supported by ledger strips around inside of opening. The larger shutter would then fill the larger opening that was made in order to lift the fan through in flat position.
To visit one source for higher quality whole house fans, click here....
ATTIC FANS - SOLAR & ELECTRIC
When the temperature climbs above 82ºF and you decide to use air conditioning, you can shut the windows and crank up the air knowing that the attic fan will save up to 30% on cooling costs by getting rid of trapped super hot air that tends to collect in attics and cause heat to back up into the home. (Click on picture to enlarge)
Attic temperatures can get up to 150ºF without an attic fan. Attic fans create a positive air-flow through your attic that does not rely on wind or require excessive passive venting. Excessive passive venting can cause excessive moisture infiltration in the form of snow or rain. The attic fan is normally mounted up on the roof of the home toward the back about two feet down from the peak. It goes on and off automatically with a thermostat, so it only runs when it is beneficial. The attic fan has a flashing that fits in with the shingles and is water-proof. Attic fans use less than 300 Watts, and offer these important advantages:
1. Lowers upstairs room temperatures by 10º.
2. Lengthens roof life by keeping shingles cooler.
3. With an optional humidistat, keep attics dry during winter months.
4. Saves up to 30% on air-conditioning costs.
The exact savings obtained depends on several factors like: the color of your roof, if the home is shaded, the amount of insulation you have, and the efficiency of your cooling system. Ideally, an attic fan installation will pay for itself within 3 years. A high quality attic fan is recommended. A heavy screen is required to stop pests. All metal construction is preferred as plastic fans do not hold up as well and over time will crack. A quality thermostat is also essential to save from climbing up into the attic for resetting. A firestat, which shuts the attic fan off for extremely high temperatures, is needed in case of a home fire. A permanently lubricated motor, insures quiet, maintenance-free operation.
There are 2 types of attic fans: roof top, and gable-end. Attic fans can be electrical or solar powered.
For more information on how you can obtain an Attic Fan or Whole House Fan for your home or for customers' homes, please click one of the links on the left.
Sunday, August 7, 2011
Get the most from your air conditioning
Get the most from your air conditioning
Open windows and use portable or ceiling fans instead of operating your air conditioner. Even mild air movement of 1 mph can make you feel three or four degrees cooler. Make sure your ceiling fan is turned for summer -- you should feel the air blown downward. If you live in a relatively dry climate, a bowl or tray of ice in front of a box fan can cool you as it evaporates.
Use a fan with your window air conditioner to spread the cool air through your home.
Without blocking air flow, shade your outside compressor. Change air filters monthly during the summer.
Use a programmable thermostat with your air conditioner to adjust the setting at night or when no one is home.
Don't place lamps or TVs near your air conditioning thermostat. The heat from these appliances will cause the air conditioner to run longer.
Consider installing a whole house fan or evaporative cooler (a "swamp cooler") if appropriate for your climate. Attics trap fierce amounts of heat; a well-placed and -sized whole-house fan pulls air through open windows on the bottom floors and exhausts it through the roof, lowering the inside temperature and reducing energy use by as much as third compared with an air conditioner. Cost is between $200 and $400 if you install it yourself. An evaporative cooler pulls air over pads soaked in cold water and uses a quarter the energy of refrigerated air, but they're useful only in low-humidity areas. Cost is $200 to $600. (See "Keep cool without pricey AC.")
Install white window shades, drapes, or blinds to reflect heat away from the house. Close curtains on south- and west-facing windows during the day.
Install awnings on south-facing windows. Because of the angle of the sun, trees, a trellis, or a fence will best shade west-facing windows. Apply sun-control or other reflective films on south-facing windows.
Landscaping for a cooler house
Plant trees or shrubs to shade air conditioning units, but not block the airflow. A unit operating in the shade uses less electricity.
Grown on trellises, vines such as ivy or grapevines can shade windows or the whole side of a house.
Avoid landscaping with lots of unshaded rock, cement, or asphalt on the south or west sides. It increases the temperature around the house and radiates heat to the house after the sun has set.
Deciduous trees planted on the south and west sides will keep your house cool in the summer. Just three trees, properly placed around a house, can save a few hundred dollars in annual cooling and heating costs. In summer, daytime air temperatures can be 3 degrees to 6 degrees cooler in tree-shaded neighborhoods.
Little things mean a lot
Replace incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescents; they produce the same light but use a fifth the energy and heat
Air-dry dishes instead of using your dishwasher's drying cycle.
Use a microwave oven instead of a conventional electric range or oven.
Turn off your computer and monitor when not in use.
Plug home electronics, such as TVs and VCRs, into power strips, and turn power strips off when equipment is not in use.
Lower the thermostat on your water heater; 115° is comfortable for most uses.
Take showers instead of baths to reduce hot water use.
Wash only full loads of dishes and clothes.
Don't air-condition the whole neighborhood
Caulking and weatherstripping will keep cool air in during the summer.
If you see holes or separated joints in your ducts, hire a professional to repair them.
Add insulation around air conditioning ducts when they are located in unconditioned spaces such as attics, crawl spaces, and garages; do the same for whole-house fans where they open to the exterior or to the attic.
Check to see that your fireplace damper is tightly closed.
Plan ahead
More costly but effective cooling measures are available as your home undergoes normal upgrades and repairs.
A 10-year-old air conditioner, for example, is only half as efficient as a new one. A quick check of your air conditioner's efficiency can help you decide whether to call in a service professional. Use a household thermometer to measure the temperature of the discharge air from the register and the temperature of the return air at the return-air grill. (Keep the thermometer in place for five minutes to get a steady temperature.) The difference should be from 14 to 20 degrees, experts say. An air conditioner that's not cooling to those levels could be low on refrigerant or have leaks. A unit cooling more than 20 degrees could have a severe blockage.
Using light shingles on a new roof can cut the amount of heat the house absorbs. Repainting in a light color, especially south- and west-facing exterior areas, helps as well.
Upgraded insulation in the attic and double-paned windows all around, complete with tinting to reflect sunlight, are good ideas, too.
Open windows and use portable or ceiling fans instead of operating your air conditioner. Even mild air movement of 1 mph can make you feel three or four degrees cooler. Make sure your ceiling fan is turned for summer -- you should feel the air blown downward. If you live in a relatively dry climate, a bowl or tray of ice in front of a box fan can cool you as it evaporates.
Use a fan with your window air conditioner to spread the cool air through your home.
Without blocking air flow, shade your outside compressor. Change air filters monthly during the summer.
Use a programmable thermostat with your air conditioner to adjust the setting at night or when no one is home.
Don't place lamps or TVs near your air conditioning thermostat. The heat from these appliances will cause the air conditioner to run longer.
Consider installing a whole house fan or evaporative cooler (a "swamp cooler") if appropriate for your climate. Attics trap fierce amounts of heat; a well-placed and -sized whole-house fan pulls air through open windows on the bottom floors and exhausts it through the roof, lowering the inside temperature and reducing energy use by as much as third compared with an air conditioner. Cost is between $200 and $400 if you install it yourself. An evaporative cooler pulls air over pads soaked in cold water and uses a quarter the energy of refrigerated air, but they're useful only in low-humidity areas. Cost is $200 to $600. (See "Keep cool without pricey AC.")
Install white window shades, drapes, or blinds to reflect heat away from the house. Close curtains on south- and west-facing windows during the day.
Install awnings on south-facing windows. Because of the angle of the sun, trees, a trellis, or a fence will best shade west-facing windows. Apply sun-control or other reflective films on south-facing windows.
Landscaping for a cooler house
Plant trees or shrubs to shade air conditioning units, but not block the airflow. A unit operating in the shade uses less electricity.
Grown on trellises, vines such as ivy or grapevines can shade windows or the whole side of a house.
Avoid landscaping with lots of unshaded rock, cement, or asphalt on the south or west sides. It increases the temperature around the house and radiates heat to the house after the sun has set.
Deciduous trees planted on the south and west sides will keep your house cool in the summer. Just three trees, properly placed around a house, can save a few hundred dollars in annual cooling and heating costs. In summer, daytime air temperatures can be 3 degrees to 6 degrees cooler in tree-shaded neighborhoods.
Little things mean a lot
Replace incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescents; they produce the same light but use a fifth the energy and heat
Air-dry dishes instead of using your dishwasher's drying cycle.
Use a microwave oven instead of a conventional electric range or oven.
Turn off your computer and monitor when not in use.
Plug home electronics, such as TVs and VCRs, into power strips, and turn power strips off when equipment is not in use.
Lower the thermostat on your water heater; 115° is comfortable for most uses.
Take showers instead of baths to reduce hot water use.
Wash only full loads of dishes and clothes.
Don't air-condition the whole neighborhood
Caulking and weatherstripping will keep cool air in during the summer.
If you see holes or separated joints in your ducts, hire a professional to repair them.
Add insulation around air conditioning ducts when they are located in unconditioned spaces such as attics, crawl spaces, and garages; do the same for whole-house fans where they open to the exterior or to the attic.
Check to see that your fireplace damper is tightly closed.
Plan ahead
More costly but effective cooling measures are available as your home undergoes normal upgrades and repairs.
A 10-year-old air conditioner, for example, is only half as efficient as a new one. A quick check of your air conditioner's efficiency can help you decide whether to call in a service professional. Use a household thermometer to measure the temperature of the discharge air from the register and the temperature of the return air at the return-air grill. (Keep the thermometer in place for five minutes to get a steady temperature.) The difference should be from 14 to 20 degrees, experts say. An air conditioner that's not cooling to those levels could be low on refrigerant or have leaks. A unit cooling more than 20 degrees could have a severe blockage.
Using light shingles on a new roof can cut the amount of heat the house absorbs. Repainting in a light color, especially south- and west-facing exterior areas, helps as well.
Upgraded insulation in the attic and double-paned windows all around, complete with tinting to reflect sunlight, are good ideas, too.
66 WAYS TO SAVE ELECTRICITY
66 WAYS TO SAVE ELECTRICITY
KEEP YOUR ELECTRICITY BILLS DOWN AND SAVE ENERGY FOR THE FUTURE BY BEING AWARE OF THE MOST EFFICIENT WAYS TO USE ELECTRICITY.
COOKING
1 Keep the door closed. Ever time you open it the temperature drop about 20 degrees (c)
2 Cook several dishes at the one time. If you are cooking small items use the fry-pan.
3 When cooking small quantities use one sauce pan with dividers.
4 Keep food warm at 70-80 deg(c) Higher temperatures waste electricity and over cook food.
5 Use oven heat for plate warming.
6 Use utensils with flat bottoms and well fitting lids. Make sure they cover hotplates.
7 To cook vegetables the water doesn't need to be boiling furiously - a gentle simmer is enough.
8 Fan type ovens reduce cooking costs.
9 Use bright clean hotplate reflectors to send the heat upwards where it is wanted.
10 Pressure cookers can save up to 25% of power.
11 Use small appliances e.g. griller, crockpot, wok, etc. for appropriate foods.
12 Thaw frozen foods before cooking - this saves about 15 minutes cooking per 450 grams (one pound).
13 A microwave is very economical for suitable functions -it is excellent for reconstituting food.
14 Don't use grill-boiler plate on top of range for utensils not large enough to cover it.
15 Don't boil water on a hotplate - use an electric kettle.
16 Make sure your oven door seals properly.
HEATING AND COOLING.
17 Have the ceiling insulated with at least 50mm of fibrous or foam insulation.
18 In timber framed or brick homes the walls should also be insulated. Block off any chimneys not being used - A lot of heat is lost there.
19 Unless you have full home conditioning close the doors of the room/s being heated or cooled. Doors and windows should fit well because draughts can waste a lot of energy. Close curtains to stop heat escaping.
20 See that air- conditioner filters and condenser coils are kept clean.
21 Reverse cycle air-conditioners provide 2 to 2.5 times as much heat as an element type heater for the same electricity consumption.
22 Zoning of a house conditioned by a ducted system can cut energy consumption to a half or even third.
23 Shade windows during summer to keep sun of the glass.
24 Don't leave heating or cooling appliances on when rooms are unoccupied.
25 Use personal fans and ceiling fans for relief from hot weather. Fans cost much less to run than air conditioners.
26 Many air- conditioning systems operate at 22 deg (c). You will still be comfortable if you set the control for 24-25 deg (c) in summer. and 18-19 deg (c) in winter and you will use a lot less electricity.
27 Leave room conditioner "fresh air" and "exhaust air" controls in the closed positions unless you want to freshen thaw room air.
28 Set fan at high speed for a room conditioner to work most efficiently.
29 Evaporative coolers are very effective when installed correctly. The operating cost of an evaporative cooler is only a fraction of that of a refrigerated unit.
30 A student can be kept warm with a 150 watt infra red lamp fitted under the desk.
31 Localized under carpet heating gives economical armchair comfort.
32 People heating is more economical than space heating.-use radiators multi-heat radiant heaters, wall strip heaters, fan heaters.
33 Electric blankets are the cheapest form of bedroom heating.
REFRIGERATION
34 Select a fridge that uses waste heat for defrosting etc. These fridges are usually cheaper to operate.
35 Buy the size you need extra capacity uses extra power.
36 If you already have a chest or upright freezer buy an "all though” refrigerator instead of a fridge freezer combination.
37 Defrost before the ice build up is 1 cm thick.
38 Open the door only when necessary.
39 Make sure the door seals well. If a piece of paper will slide easily between the cabinet and the door seal is not good enough.
40 Keep dust and fluff brushed off the coils on the back or bottom of the fridge.
41 Put the fridge in a well ventilated position.
42 Place your fridge away from direct sunlight or any source of heat. Don't put hot food into a fridge or freezer.
CLOTHES AND WASHING
43 Don't buy a large machine if you don't need it. For the occasional big wash an extra cycle or two is cheaper than under using a large washer.
44 Adjust the water level to economically wash a partial load. Otherwise it is better to wait until you have a full load. But don't overload your machine.
45 Your washer may have features than can save your money. Soak cycles remove stubborn stains in wash cycle. Suds savers allow you to re use hot water.
46 Use correct type of detergent and cold or tepid water will wash clothes effectively.
LIGHTING
47 Good lighting means avoiding glare and gloom by using the right amount of light in the right way.
48 Use light translucent shades- opaque or dark shades require bigger lamps.
49 Use a good local light near the task. It is more effective and more efficient than a large central light.
50 Use fluorescent tubes. They use about a quarter of electricity used by ordinary globes and they last
About eight times as long. They CAN be switched on and off as often as you need without affecting operating cost.
CLOTHES DRYING
51 Use solar energy to dry your clothes -it costs nothing.
52 Operate your dryer using the fan alone. Only switch the heater on if it is really necessary. Vent the dryer outside the house and don't let lint block the vent.
53 never overload or under load the dryer - you get most economical operation with the correct load.
54 Switch off when the clothes are dry enough - over drying makes them feel harsh and waste electricity.
55 Tumble dryers are more effective than cabinet dryers.
WATER HEATING
56 Off peak low pressure storage heaters are generally the cheapest overall.
57 Don't allow dripping taps .Sixty drips a minutes means about 1200 liters a month drown the drain.
And you have paid for it to be heated.
58 Water restrictors and low flow shower nozzles will help to save water.
59 Insulate hot water pipes from storage heaters for at least a meter from the heater as heat can be conducted along these pipes and lost to the atmosphere.
60 Install a storage heater of 125 liters or more to run off peak tariff - which is about half the normal rate.
61 Normally you will use less water for shower than bath.
62 Fill your electric kettle or jug from the cold tap. Running off a lot of cold water from the hot pipes is wasteful and expensive.
63 Don't have you hot water set too 70 deg (c) is usually hot enough. Otherwise it costs more to heat the water and it loses more heat while being stored.
ACCESSORIES
64 Dimmers save power and enable you to obtain pleasant changes of mood in your lighting.
65 Use plug-in timers to control such things as frying pans, crock pots, radiators, lights and air conditioners.
66. Install insulation and attic fan
KEEP YOUR ELECTRICITY BILLS DOWN AND SAVE ENERGY FOR THE FUTURE BY BEING AWARE OF THE MOST EFFICIENT WAYS TO USE ELECTRICITY.
COOKING
1 Keep the door closed. Ever time you open it the temperature drop about 20 degrees (c)
2 Cook several dishes at the one time. If you are cooking small items use the fry-pan.
3 When cooking small quantities use one sauce pan with dividers.
4 Keep food warm at 70-80 deg(c) Higher temperatures waste electricity and over cook food.
5 Use oven heat for plate warming.
6 Use utensils with flat bottoms and well fitting lids. Make sure they cover hotplates.
7 To cook vegetables the water doesn't need to be boiling furiously - a gentle simmer is enough.
8 Fan type ovens reduce cooking costs.
9 Use bright clean hotplate reflectors to send the heat upwards where it is wanted.
10 Pressure cookers can save up to 25% of power.
11 Use small appliances e.g. griller, crockpot, wok, etc. for appropriate foods.
12 Thaw frozen foods before cooking - this saves about 15 minutes cooking per 450 grams (one pound).
13 A microwave is very economical for suitable functions -it is excellent for reconstituting food.
14 Don't use grill-boiler plate on top of range for utensils not large enough to cover it.
15 Don't boil water on a hotplate - use an electric kettle.
16 Make sure your oven door seals properly.
HEATING AND COOLING.
17 Have the ceiling insulated with at least 50mm of fibrous or foam insulation.
18 In timber framed or brick homes the walls should also be insulated. Block off any chimneys not being used - A lot of heat is lost there.
19 Unless you have full home conditioning close the doors of the room/s being heated or cooled. Doors and windows should fit well because draughts can waste a lot of energy. Close curtains to stop heat escaping.
20 See that air- conditioner filters and condenser coils are kept clean.
21 Reverse cycle air-conditioners provide 2 to 2.5 times as much heat as an element type heater for the same electricity consumption.
22 Zoning of a house conditioned by a ducted system can cut energy consumption to a half or even third.
23 Shade windows during summer to keep sun of the glass.
24 Don't leave heating or cooling appliances on when rooms are unoccupied.
25 Use personal fans and ceiling fans for relief from hot weather. Fans cost much less to run than air conditioners.
26 Many air- conditioning systems operate at 22 deg (c). You will still be comfortable if you set the control for 24-25 deg (c) in summer. and 18-19 deg (c) in winter and you will use a lot less electricity.
27 Leave room conditioner "fresh air" and "exhaust air" controls in the closed positions unless you want to freshen thaw room air.
28 Set fan at high speed for a room conditioner to work most efficiently.
29 Evaporative coolers are very effective when installed correctly. The operating cost of an evaporative cooler is only a fraction of that of a refrigerated unit.
30 A student can be kept warm with a 150 watt infra red lamp fitted under the desk.
31 Localized under carpet heating gives economical armchair comfort.
32 People heating is more economical than space heating.-use radiators multi-heat radiant heaters, wall strip heaters, fan heaters.
33 Electric blankets are the cheapest form of bedroom heating.
REFRIGERATION
34 Select a fridge that uses waste heat for defrosting etc. These fridges are usually cheaper to operate.
35 Buy the size you need extra capacity uses extra power.
36 If you already have a chest or upright freezer buy an "all though” refrigerator instead of a fridge freezer combination.
37 Defrost before the ice build up is 1 cm thick.
38 Open the door only when necessary.
39 Make sure the door seals well. If a piece of paper will slide easily between the cabinet and the door seal is not good enough.
40 Keep dust and fluff brushed off the coils on the back or bottom of the fridge.
41 Put the fridge in a well ventilated position.
42 Place your fridge away from direct sunlight or any source of heat. Don't put hot food into a fridge or freezer.
CLOTHES AND WASHING
43 Don't buy a large machine if you don't need it. For the occasional big wash an extra cycle or two is cheaper than under using a large washer.
44 Adjust the water level to economically wash a partial load. Otherwise it is better to wait until you have a full load. But don't overload your machine.
45 Your washer may have features than can save your money. Soak cycles remove stubborn stains in wash cycle. Suds savers allow you to re use hot water.
46 Use correct type of detergent and cold or tepid water will wash clothes effectively.
LIGHTING
47 Good lighting means avoiding glare and gloom by using the right amount of light in the right way.
48 Use light translucent shades- opaque or dark shades require bigger lamps.
49 Use a good local light near the task. It is more effective and more efficient than a large central light.
50 Use fluorescent tubes. They use about a quarter of electricity used by ordinary globes and they last
About eight times as long. They CAN be switched on and off as often as you need without affecting operating cost.
CLOTHES DRYING
51 Use solar energy to dry your clothes -it costs nothing.
52 Operate your dryer using the fan alone. Only switch the heater on if it is really necessary. Vent the dryer outside the house and don't let lint block the vent.
53 never overload or under load the dryer - you get most economical operation with the correct load.
54 Switch off when the clothes are dry enough - over drying makes them feel harsh and waste electricity.
55 Tumble dryers are more effective than cabinet dryers.
WATER HEATING
56 Off peak low pressure storage heaters are generally the cheapest overall.
57 Don't allow dripping taps .Sixty drips a minutes means about 1200 liters a month drown the drain.
And you have paid for it to be heated.
58 Water restrictors and low flow shower nozzles will help to save water.
59 Insulate hot water pipes from storage heaters for at least a meter from the heater as heat can be conducted along these pipes and lost to the atmosphere.
60 Install a storage heater of 125 liters or more to run off peak tariff - which is about half the normal rate.
61 Normally you will use less water for shower than bath.
62 Fill your electric kettle or jug from the cold tap. Running off a lot of cold water from the hot pipes is wasteful and expensive.
63 Don't have you hot water set too 70 deg (c) is usually hot enough. Otherwise it costs more to heat the water and it loses more heat while being stored.
ACCESSORIES
64 Dimmers save power and enable you to obtain pleasant changes of mood in your lighting.
65 Use plug-in timers to control such things as frying pans, crock pots, radiators, lights and air conditioners.
66. Install insulation and attic fan
How Energy Recovery Ventilators Work:
How Energy Recovery Ventilators Work:
In the RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) energy exchange core, the exhausted stale air and the fresh ventilation air pass through multiple air passages separated by an engineered composite resin partition plate. Sensible heat transfers from the warmer to the cooler air stream. Also, latent energy (water vapor in the gas state) transfers from the wetter to the drier air stream. The fresh incoming air is automatically preheated or precooled depending on the season. This dramatically reduces the energy costs of ventilation.
This unique moisture transfer feature of the RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) energy exchange core eliminates condensate and frosting in most applications. No mechanical or electrical defrost systems are needed, which means higher heat recovery efficiencies, simpler installation and more reliable operation.
During the Heating Season:
Outdoor air is warmed to close-to-room temperature with heat that would otherwise be lost with the exhaust air. Indoor humidity levels are prevented from becoming too dry or too humid by the partial transfer of water vapor. Non-enthalpic heat recovery systems cannot deliver that benefit.
During the Air Conditioning Season:
RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) Core systems recover coolness and dryness from the exhausted air. Outside air brought in for ventilation is reduced in temperature and humidity because its heat and humidity is transferred to the exhaust air stream.
With summer-time humidity (latent load) being the largest portion of the cooling load associated with outside air ventilation, this humidity transfer is critical. Other plate-type heat exchangers can’t touch this major load. RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) makes it easier for your air conditioning system to keep you both cool and dry.
INSTALLATIONS, SIZES, AND SAVINGS - Click Here
Energy Recovery Ventilators
Typical
Sizing Calculator
Economy
Here is a Typical AirMulti Energy Recovery Ventilator Installation:
The installations below are examples of a residential and a commercial application
Why AirMulti Energy Recovery Ventilators
Are Your Best Indoor Air Quality Solution
Winter: Humidity level control without over drying.
Passive freeze protection design (dehumidified exhaust air stream depresses dew point temperature below actual temperature).
No condensate pan or drain for easier installation and no associated biological growths.
Summer: Reduced cooling load on the air conditioning equipment.
• Moderates humidity extremes associated with outside air ventilation.
Year
Round: Reliable fixed plate design versus heat wheel, heat pipe, metallic or plastic fixed plate alternatives.
• Low maintenance, no moving parts
• expandable designs for unlimited CFM
• 10 year energy exchange core warranty
• Proven in all climates
• Simple and easy to control
WHAT SIZE RENEWAIRE UNIT IS RIGHT FOR YOUR HOME?
If your air requirements are greater than 210 CFM, give us a call at 435-722-5877 or drop us an e-mail and we will design your system.
50 - 130 CFM EV- 130
100 - 200 CFM EV- 200
RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) ENERGY RECOVERY VENTILATORS ARE available in a wide range of sizes and configurations to suit virtually any application form residential to applied-commercial to institutional. Since its introduction in 1970, the RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) Core has provided energy-efficient ventilation in thousands of systems throughout North America and around the globe. In fact, more RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) Cores have been used in energy recovery ventilation systems than any other core in the world.
RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) ERVs SAVE UP TO seventy-five percent in energy costs
The RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) energy recovery system saves money by reducing the workload on your heating and cooling equipment when bringing in fresh air. The equipment can then be smaller than you would have to buy if you were using other types of ventilation equipment. In fact, you’ll save up to 75% in energy compared to typical ventilation systems, resulting in lower utility bills in both the heat of summer and the cold of winter.
RESIDENTIAL VENTILATION EXAMPLE (130 CFM)
Balanced Ventilator
(No energy recovered) RenewAire EV130
(75% energy recovered)
HEAT LOAD AT 10 F (indoor 70 F, 35% RH) 11,800 BTU/hour 4,100 BTU/hour
AC LOAD AT 95 F, 75 F WB (indoor 75 F, 50% RH) 6,100 8TU/hour 3,366 8TU/hour
TYPICAL FURNACE SIZE 60,000 BTU/hour 45,000 BTU/hour
TYPICAL AIR CONDITIONER SIZE 3 tons 2.5 tons
ANNUAL HEATING FUEL SAVINGS FOR NATURAL GAS
ANNUAL HEATING FUEL SAVINGS FOR ELECTRICITY $100/YR- LESS THAN 5-YEAR PAYBACK*
$295/YR- LESS THAN 2-YEAR PAYBACK*
* Example based on net additional cost for energy recovery.
Call us for an evaluation of possible savings in your area.
FLEXIBILITY: stand-alone or heating system installation.
RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) Energy Recovery Ventilators (ERV) can be installed as a stand-alone unit or connected to your heating system.
In the RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) energy exchange core, the exhausted stale air and the fresh ventilation air pass through multiple air passages separated by an engineered composite resin partition plate. Sensible heat transfers from the warmer to the cooler air stream. Also, latent energy (water vapor in the gas state) transfers from the wetter to the drier air stream. The fresh incoming air is automatically preheated or precooled depending on the season. This dramatically reduces the energy costs of ventilation.
This unique moisture transfer feature of the RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) energy exchange core eliminates condensate and frosting in most applications. No mechanical or electrical defrost systems are needed, which means higher heat recovery efficiencies, simpler installation and more reliable operation.
During the Heating Season:
Outdoor air is warmed to close-to-room temperature with heat that would otherwise be lost with the exhaust air. Indoor humidity levels are prevented from becoming too dry or too humid by the partial transfer of water vapor. Non-enthalpic heat recovery systems cannot deliver that benefit.
During the Air Conditioning Season:
RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) Core systems recover coolness and dryness from the exhausted air. Outside air brought in for ventilation is reduced in temperature and humidity because its heat and humidity is transferred to the exhaust air stream.
With summer-time humidity (latent load) being the largest portion of the cooling load associated with outside air ventilation, this humidity transfer is critical. Other plate-type heat exchangers can’t touch this major load. RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) makes it easier for your air conditioning system to keep you both cool and dry.
INSTALLATIONS, SIZES, AND SAVINGS - Click Here
Energy Recovery Ventilators
Typical
Sizing Calculator
Economy
Here is a Typical AirMulti Energy Recovery Ventilator Installation:
The installations below are examples of a residential and a commercial application
Why AirMulti Energy Recovery Ventilators
Are Your Best Indoor Air Quality Solution
Winter: Humidity level control without over drying.
Passive freeze protection design (dehumidified exhaust air stream depresses dew point temperature below actual temperature).
No condensate pan or drain for easier installation and no associated biological growths.
Summer: Reduced cooling load on the air conditioning equipment.
• Moderates humidity extremes associated with outside air ventilation.
Year
Round: Reliable fixed plate design versus heat wheel, heat pipe, metallic or plastic fixed plate alternatives.
• Low maintenance, no moving parts
• expandable designs for unlimited CFM
• 10 year energy exchange core warranty
• Proven in all climates
• Simple and easy to control
WHAT SIZE RENEWAIRE UNIT IS RIGHT FOR YOUR HOME?
If your air requirements are greater than 210 CFM, give us a call at 435-722-5877 or drop us an e-mail and we will design your system.
50 - 130 CFM EV- 130
100 - 200 CFM EV- 200
RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) ENERGY RECOVERY VENTILATORS ARE available in a wide range of sizes and configurations to suit virtually any application form residential to applied-commercial to institutional. Since its introduction in 1970, the RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) Core has provided energy-efficient ventilation in thousands of systems throughout North America and around the globe. In fact, more RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) Cores have been used in energy recovery ventilation systems than any other core in the world.
RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) ERVs SAVE UP TO seventy-five percent in energy costs
The RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) energy recovery system saves money by reducing the workload on your heating and cooling equipment when bringing in fresh air. The equipment can then be smaller than you would have to buy if you were using other types of ventilation equipment. In fact, you’ll save up to 75% in energy compared to typical ventilation systems, resulting in lower utility bills in both the heat of summer and the cold of winter.
RESIDENTIAL VENTILATION EXAMPLE (130 CFM)
Balanced Ventilator
(No energy recovered) RenewAire EV130
(75% energy recovered)
HEAT LOAD AT 10 F (indoor 70 F, 35% RH) 11,800 BTU/hour 4,100 BTU/hour
AC LOAD AT 95 F, 75 F WB (indoor 75 F, 50% RH) 6,100 8TU/hour 3,366 8TU/hour
TYPICAL FURNACE SIZE 60,000 BTU/hour 45,000 BTU/hour
TYPICAL AIR CONDITIONER SIZE 3 tons 2.5 tons
ANNUAL HEATING FUEL SAVINGS FOR NATURAL GAS
ANNUAL HEATING FUEL SAVINGS FOR ELECTRICITY $100/YR- LESS THAN 5-YEAR PAYBACK*
$295/YR- LESS THAN 2-YEAR PAYBACK*
* Example based on net additional cost for energy recovery.
Call us for an evaluation of possible savings in your area.
FLEXIBILITY: stand-alone or heating system installation.
RenewAire (formerly Lossnay) Energy Recovery Ventilators (ERV) can be installed as a stand-alone unit or connected to your heating system.
Whole House Fan
Whole House Fan
Energy technical bulletin 10
Prepared by Southface Energy Institute, for more information contact Southface Energy Institute, 241 Pine St., Atlanta, GA 30308, 404/872-3549, www.southface.org
For Georgia Environmental Facilities Authority . 2080 Equitable Bldg., 100 Peachtree St., NW . Atlanta, GA 30303 . 404/656-5176
þ Build and use fan covers
See diagrams for construction details.
Because the louvers are leaky, a cover should be constructed to airseal and insulate this hole during the
seasons when the fan is not in operation. The cover may be installed from the attic side if attic access is
easily available or from the house side. Both covers could be included in excessively hot or cold climates.
Homeowners must remember to remove cover(s) before operating the fan and to replace cover(s) during
seasons when the fan is not in use.
Cooling strategies
In the summertime, the air inside a home is heated during the hot part of the day. At night especially, and during the morning and late evening, the outside air is often cooler and can be used to replace the inside air. It is important to open all or at least several windows, even if only partially, to provide adequate airflow. Closing windows in unused rooms will create higher velocity air movement in occupied rooms.
Running the whole house fan whenever outdoor temperatures are lower than indoor will cool the house.
Operate the whole house fan throughout the evening to cool interior materials. An approximate rule of thumb would be to use the whole house fan when outside temperatures are below 85ºF. As daytime temperatures rise, turn off the whole house fan. The cool room materials (along with ceiling or circulating fans which create an additional cooling effect) will help keep the interior more comfortable.
Installing and using a whole house fan
Why use a whole house fan?
A whole house fan is a simple and inexpensive method of cooling a house. The fan draws cool outdoor air inside through open windows and exhausts hot room air through the attic to the outside. The result is excellent ventilation, lower indoor temperatures, and improved evaporative cooling.
What are the benefits?
A whole house fan can be used as the sole means of cooling or to reduce the need for air conditioning. Outside air temperature and humidity dictate times when the whole house fan would be favorable over air conditioning. If both methods of cooling are present, a seasonal use of the whole house fan (during spring and fall) may yield the optimum combination of comfort and cost.
þ First cost benefit
Equipment cost for whole house fan = $150 - $350
Equipment cost for window unit AC = $250 - $750
Equipment cost for central AC = $2,000 - $4,000
þ Ventilation
A whole house fan can be used to change the air in the house and vent odors quickly.
þ Economics of operation
Operating a properly sized 2-ton, 10 SEER air conditioner in Atlanta, Georgia costs over $250 per
cooling season (1250 hours), based on 8.5¢/kwh, or roughly 20¢ per hour of runtime. A large 18,000 Btu/hr
window unit air conditioner with a 6 EER costs more than 25¢ to operate for one hour.
By contrast, the whole house fan has a motor in the ¼ to ½ hp range, uses between 120 to 600 watts, and
costs around 1-5¢ per hour of use.
What are the drawbacks?
þ Temperature, humidity, and dust
A whole house fan has some drawbacks: the fan can only cool the inside of a house to the outside temperature; unlike an air conditioner, it does not dehumidify; and dust and pollen can be brought into the house.
Maximize your savings
During the winter months (and summer when air conditioning is used), a whole house fan represents a potential energy loss because it is essentially a large, uninsulated hole in the ceiling. Standard fan louvers do not insulate or seal tightly.
Whole house fan with attic-side cover. Whole house fans have either a direct drive motor (pictured) or a belt and pulley drive to turn the fan blades.
Prepared by Southface Energy Institute, for more information contact Southface Energy Institute, 241 Pine St., Atlanta, GA 30308, 404/872-3549, www.southface.org
Truss chord mounting bracket. Line up brackets. Do not cut truss chord.
Use house wrap tape, spray foam, or caulk to seal fan frame to truss frame. Airseal any gaps between fan box and truss frame so that when fan is running, no attic air is pulled across the fan.
Construct .H. brackets from 2x4.s to create frame support for fan (see detail on next page)
Ceiling
Caulk to seal louver frame flange to ceiling
IMPORTANT:
Ensure louvers function properly (no binding or sticking)
VELCRO. - Helps to seal and attach cover used in winter caulk cracks and seams
Rigid board insulation (¾" - 1" thick) covered with white contact paper
Mount cover to louver with VELCRO. And bolt with washer and wing nut Hole, Washer, & Wing nut
Threaded Bolt Louver cover detail ¼"-20 nut threaded all the way up to hold bolt to the louver section. Wing nut and washer hold rigid board insulation tightly against louver.
Installing a whole house fan
Louver cover materials list:
. 30" x 30" piece of ¾"- 1" rigid insulation
(minimum thickness)
. White contact paper
. Drill with ¼" bit
. 1¼" long, ¼" - 20 threaded bolt
. Fender washer with ¼" opening
. ¼" - 20 wing nut
. VELCRO. with adhesive fasteners
Prepared by Southface Energy Institute, for more information contact Southface Energy Institute, 241 Pine St., Atlanta, GA 30308, 404/872-3549, www.southface.org
How to build an attic-side box cover
A typical whole house fan has a 30" diameter blade with a sheet metal cowling of 31" to allow for blade clearance. An attic-side box cover may be constructed from a 4' x 4' piece of 1" rigid fiberglass duct board. The box will be 33" square with 1" thick walls (inside dimension of 31" x 31"). It will be 6½" deep. Adjust dimensions to actual fan size.
1" wide strip of fiberglass material scraped away without cutting silver backing
Add silver duct tape to corners .H. brackets make fan installation easy. A fan with a 34" base (30" blade) will work with the dimensions shown
Use .H. brackets to provide proper support
When installing a whole house fan, be sure to provide proper support and seal the unit into the rough opening in the ceiling. Never cut a truss chord; wooden .H. brackets installed between the trusses create a framed box to raise the fan above the truss system. The louvers must be able to operate freely (open/close) and care must be undertaken to prevent binding or misalignment.
Attic-side box cover materials list:
. 48" x 48" piece of 1" fiberglass duct board . Silver duct tape or house wrap tape
. Tools: measuring tape, straight edge, utility knife
. Permanent marker to label box
. Wear gloves and eye protection when working with duct board Label Box
.WHOLE HOUSE FAN COVER.
.REMOVE BEFORE OPERATING FAN.
.REPLACE WHEN NOT USING FAN.
Helpful reminders
Attach labels to remind users to remove energy-saving covers.
þ Label the attic-side box cover
.WHOLE HOUSE FAN COVER.,
.REMOVE BEFORE OPERATING FAN.,
.REPLACE WHEN NOT USING FAN..
þ Label the fan switch
Cut out and discard four corners
Whole House Fan
Energy technical bulletin 10
Prepared by Southface Energy Institute, for more information contact Southface Energy Institute, 241 Pine St., Atlanta, GA 30308, 404/872-3549, www.southface.org
For Georgia Environmental Facilities Authority . 2080 Equitable Bldg., 100 Peachtree St., NW . Atlanta, GA 30303 . 404/656-5176
Selecting a whole house fan
þ Fan speed
Two-speed fans permit the entire house to be ventilated quickly on high speed (such as when the occupants first arrive at home) and then provide gentle air circulation at the lower, quieter speed. Variable speed units offer more flexibility in selecting the desired air movement.
þ Control options
Controls may be simple on/off pull or wall switches, multi-speed rotary wall switches, or a timer which
automatically shuts off the fan at pre-selected time intervals.
þ Louvers
Dampers or louvers typically operate automatically whenever the fan operates. Motorized dampers are
available but are not necessary if the louvers are correctly installed and maintained. Proper opening and
closing of louvers is critical to a whole house fans performance.
þ Motor mounts and noise
A direct drive unit has its fan blades attached directly to the motors shaft. It is usually less expensive to buy
and operates at higher rpm’s than its belt driven counterpart. A belt driven unit, which typically features
a motor driving a slower moving, larger diameter fan with four or more blades, may be quieter, but will
require maintenance of the pulley and belt.
HOT AIR OUT COOL AIR IN
In addition to sizing a whole house fan correctly, it is important that ALL penetrations between the attic and
living space are sealed and that the attic is properly ventilated. A central hallway, or a stairway in a two-story
house, is the most common location.
Sizing a whole house fan
Determining the amount of airflow in cubic feet per minute (cfm) that the whole house fan should provide involves a simple calculation. Multiply the total gross square footage of the house (include upstairs area) by the ceiling height (typically 8 feet). Select a fan that delivers between one half to one times that amount of cfm at 0.1" static pressure.
For example, a 25'x40', one-story home is 1,000 square feet and would need an 8 x 1,000 x ½ = 4,000 cfm fan or better. A manufacturer sells a two-speed unit that delivers 4,500 cfm at the high setting (240 watts) and 3,200 cfm at low (120 watts); this unit should be adequate.
Installation tips and concerns
þ Seal penetrations and vent attic adequately Caulk all penetrations between the attic and living
space, i.e., electrical boxes for ceiling light fixtures, loose attic hatches, large cutouts for plumbing vents,
exposed beams, and recessed lights. A whole house fan creates a positive pressure in your attic and it is
important that air from the attic is not forced back into the living space through cracks and gaps.
Guidelines for sufficient attic vent area is one square foot of net free vent area per 750 cfm of fan airflow,
(4,500 / 750 = 6 square feet for the example above).
Continuous ridge and soffit vents are usually more than adequate. Vents with insect screens may have a
net free area equivalent to ½ of the total open area depending upon the size of the holes in the screen
area. Insulation should be installed directly against the fan box frame. Blown-in insulation may require
the sides of the fan box to be raised (with baffles) to prevent interference.
þ Avoid backdrafts
Care should be taken to avoid backdrafting combustion appliances that are installed in the conditioned space.
It is strongly recommended that combustion appliances NOT be installed in such a manner that they use room air for combustion. The whole house fan is capable of pulling large quantities of air from the home and,
particularly if not enough windows are open, may easily backdraft a water heater located inside a louvered
closet door.
þ Label your switches Controls should be placed higher on walls than light switches to avoid confusion and to keep them out of the reach of small children. Labels over switches are recommended to remind users to remove any energy saving covers and to open at least two or more windows before using.
Energy technical bulletin 10
Prepared by Southface Energy Institute, for more information contact Southface Energy Institute, 241 Pine St., Atlanta, GA 30308, 404/872-3549, www.southface.org
For Georgia Environmental Facilities Authority . 2080 Equitable Bldg., 100 Peachtree St., NW . Atlanta, GA 30303 . 404/656-5176
þ Build and use fan covers
See diagrams for construction details.
Because the louvers are leaky, a cover should be constructed to airseal and insulate this hole during the
seasons when the fan is not in operation. The cover may be installed from the attic side if attic access is
easily available or from the house side. Both covers could be included in excessively hot or cold climates.
Homeowners must remember to remove cover(s) before operating the fan and to replace cover(s) during
seasons when the fan is not in use.
Cooling strategies
In the summertime, the air inside a home is heated during the hot part of the day. At night especially, and during the morning and late evening, the outside air is often cooler and can be used to replace the inside air. It is important to open all or at least several windows, even if only partially, to provide adequate airflow. Closing windows in unused rooms will create higher velocity air movement in occupied rooms.
Running the whole house fan whenever outdoor temperatures are lower than indoor will cool the house.
Operate the whole house fan throughout the evening to cool interior materials. An approximate rule of thumb would be to use the whole house fan when outside temperatures are below 85ºF. As daytime temperatures rise, turn off the whole house fan. The cool room materials (along with ceiling or circulating fans which create an additional cooling effect) will help keep the interior more comfortable.
Installing and using a whole house fan
Why use a whole house fan?
A whole house fan is a simple and inexpensive method of cooling a house. The fan draws cool outdoor air inside through open windows and exhausts hot room air through the attic to the outside. The result is excellent ventilation, lower indoor temperatures, and improved evaporative cooling.
What are the benefits?
A whole house fan can be used as the sole means of cooling or to reduce the need for air conditioning. Outside air temperature and humidity dictate times when the whole house fan would be favorable over air conditioning. If both methods of cooling are present, a seasonal use of the whole house fan (during spring and fall) may yield the optimum combination of comfort and cost.
þ First cost benefit
Equipment cost for whole house fan = $150 - $350
Equipment cost for window unit AC = $250 - $750
Equipment cost for central AC = $2,000 - $4,000
þ Ventilation
A whole house fan can be used to change the air in the house and vent odors quickly.
þ Economics of operation
Operating a properly sized 2-ton, 10 SEER air conditioner in Atlanta, Georgia costs over $250 per
cooling season (1250 hours), based on 8.5¢/kwh, or roughly 20¢ per hour of runtime. A large 18,000 Btu/hr
window unit air conditioner with a 6 EER costs more than 25¢ to operate for one hour.
By contrast, the whole house fan has a motor in the ¼ to ½ hp range, uses between 120 to 600 watts, and
costs around 1-5¢ per hour of use.
What are the drawbacks?
þ Temperature, humidity, and dust
A whole house fan has some drawbacks: the fan can only cool the inside of a house to the outside temperature; unlike an air conditioner, it does not dehumidify; and dust and pollen can be brought into the house.
Maximize your savings
During the winter months (and summer when air conditioning is used), a whole house fan represents a potential energy loss because it is essentially a large, uninsulated hole in the ceiling. Standard fan louvers do not insulate or seal tightly.
Whole house fan with attic-side cover. Whole house fans have either a direct drive motor (pictured) or a belt and pulley drive to turn the fan blades.
Prepared by Southface Energy Institute, for more information contact Southface Energy Institute, 241 Pine St., Atlanta, GA 30308, 404/872-3549, www.southface.org
Truss chord mounting bracket. Line up brackets. Do not cut truss chord.
Use house wrap tape, spray foam, or caulk to seal fan frame to truss frame. Airseal any gaps between fan box and truss frame so that when fan is running, no attic air is pulled across the fan.
Construct .H. brackets from 2x4.s to create frame support for fan (see detail on next page)
Ceiling
Caulk to seal louver frame flange to ceiling
IMPORTANT:
Ensure louvers function properly (no binding or sticking)
VELCRO. - Helps to seal and attach cover used in winter caulk cracks and seams
Rigid board insulation (¾" - 1" thick) covered with white contact paper
Mount cover to louver with VELCRO. And bolt with washer and wing nut Hole, Washer, & Wing nut
Threaded Bolt Louver cover detail ¼"-20 nut threaded all the way up to hold bolt to the louver section. Wing nut and washer hold rigid board insulation tightly against louver.
Installing a whole house fan
Louver cover materials list:
. 30" x 30" piece of ¾"- 1" rigid insulation
(minimum thickness)
. White contact paper
. Drill with ¼" bit
. 1¼" long, ¼" - 20 threaded bolt
. Fender washer with ¼" opening
. ¼" - 20 wing nut
. VELCRO. with adhesive fasteners
Prepared by Southface Energy Institute, for more information contact Southface Energy Institute, 241 Pine St., Atlanta, GA 30308, 404/872-3549, www.southface.org
How to build an attic-side box cover
A typical whole house fan has a 30" diameter blade with a sheet metal cowling of 31" to allow for blade clearance. An attic-side box cover may be constructed from a 4' x 4' piece of 1" rigid fiberglass duct board. The box will be 33" square with 1" thick walls (inside dimension of 31" x 31"). It will be 6½" deep. Adjust dimensions to actual fan size.
1" wide strip of fiberglass material scraped away without cutting silver backing
Add silver duct tape to corners .H. brackets make fan installation easy. A fan with a 34" base (30" blade) will work with the dimensions shown
Use .H. brackets to provide proper support
When installing a whole house fan, be sure to provide proper support and seal the unit into the rough opening in the ceiling. Never cut a truss chord; wooden .H. brackets installed between the trusses create a framed box to raise the fan above the truss system. The louvers must be able to operate freely (open/close) and care must be undertaken to prevent binding or misalignment.
Attic-side box cover materials list:
. 48" x 48" piece of 1" fiberglass duct board . Silver duct tape or house wrap tape
. Tools: measuring tape, straight edge, utility knife
. Permanent marker to label box
. Wear gloves and eye protection when working with duct board Label Box
.WHOLE HOUSE FAN COVER.
.REMOVE BEFORE OPERATING FAN.
.REPLACE WHEN NOT USING FAN.
Helpful reminders
Attach labels to remind users to remove energy-saving covers.
þ Label the attic-side box cover
.WHOLE HOUSE FAN COVER.,
.REMOVE BEFORE OPERATING FAN.,
.REPLACE WHEN NOT USING FAN..
þ Label the fan switch
Cut out and discard four corners
Whole House Fan
Energy technical bulletin 10
Prepared by Southface Energy Institute, for more information contact Southface Energy Institute, 241 Pine St., Atlanta, GA 30308, 404/872-3549, www.southface.org
For Georgia Environmental Facilities Authority . 2080 Equitable Bldg., 100 Peachtree St., NW . Atlanta, GA 30303 . 404/656-5176
Selecting a whole house fan
þ Fan speed
Two-speed fans permit the entire house to be ventilated quickly on high speed (such as when the occupants first arrive at home) and then provide gentle air circulation at the lower, quieter speed. Variable speed units offer more flexibility in selecting the desired air movement.
þ Control options
Controls may be simple on/off pull or wall switches, multi-speed rotary wall switches, or a timer which
automatically shuts off the fan at pre-selected time intervals.
þ Louvers
Dampers or louvers typically operate automatically whenever the fan operates. Motorized dampers are
available but are not necessary if the louvers are correctly installed and maintained. Proper opening and
closing of louvers is critical to a whole house fans performance.
þ Motor mounts and noise
A direct drive unit has its fan blades attached directly to the motors shaft. It is usually less expensive to buy
and operates at higher rpm’s than its belt driven counterpart. A belt driven unit, which typically features
a motor driving a slower moving, larger diameter fan with four or more blades, may be quieter, but will
require maintenance of the pulley and belt.
HOT AIR OUT COOL AIR IN
In addition to sizing a whole house fan correctly, it is important that ALL penetrations between the attic and
living space are sealed and that the attic is properly ventilated. A central hallway, or a stairway in a two-story
house, is the most common location.
Sizing a whole house fan
Determining the amount of airflow in cubic feet per minute (cfm) that the whole house fan should provide involves a simple calculation. Multiply the total gross square footage of the house (include upstairs area) by the ceiling height (typically 8 feet). Select a fan that delivers between one half to one times that amount of cfm at 0.1" static pressure.
For example, a 25'x40', one-story home is 1,000 square feet and would need an 8 x 1,000 x ½ = 4,000 cfm fan or better. A manufacturer sells a two-speed unit that delivers 4,500 cfm at the high setting (240 watts) and 3,200 cfm at low (120 watts); this unit should be adequate.
Installation tips and concerns
þ Seal penetrations and vent attic adequately Caulk all penetrations between the attic and living
space, i.e., electrical boxes for ceiling light fixtures, loose attic hatches, large cutouts for plumbing vents,
exposed beams, and recessed lights. A whole house fan creates a positive pressure in your attic and it is
important that air from the attic is not forced back into the living space through cracks and gaps.
Guidelines for sufficient attic vent area is one square foot of net free vent area per 750 cfm of fan airflow,
(4,500 / 750 = 6 square feet for the example above).
Continuous ridge and soffit vents are usually more than adequate. Vents with insect screens may have a
net free area equivalent to ½ of the total open area depending upon the size of the holes in the screen
area. Insulation should be installed directly against the fan box frame. Blown-in insulation may require
the sides of the fan box to be raised (with baffles) to prevent interference.
þ Avoid backdrafts
Care should be taken to avoid backdrafting combustion appliances that are installed in the conditioned space.
It is strongly recommended that combustion appliances NOT be installed in such a manner that they use room air for combustion. The whole house fan is capable of pulling large quantities of air from the home and,
particularly if not enough windows are open, may easily backdraft a water heater located inside a louvered
closet door.
þ Label your switches Controls should be placed higher on walls than light switches to avoid confusion and to keep them out of the reach of small children. Labels over switches are recommended to remind users to remove any energy saving covers and to open at least two or more windows before using.
Energy savings
Ways To Save Energy
Ways to Save Energy at Home:
1.Turn off air conditioning systems in un-occupied rooms and try to keep the room cool by keeping the curtains. Doing this will help in conserving energy and less consumption.
2.Turn off the lights when leaving the rooms and use dim lights in galleries, lobbies, balconies and bathrooms.
3.Make maximum use of sunlight during the day. Drapes or curtains on windows & doors are to be drawn apart during day time, for natural light to reduce need for electrical lights inside the home.
4.Geysers consume the maximum amount of electricity. Use them to heat only that amount of water that is required. Thermostat can be set to a lower temperature i.e. 45 to 50 degrees.
5.Switch Off Appliances When Not In Use. Never forget to switch off lights, fans, refrigerators when you are going out for an outing on the weeekend.
6.Use compact fluorescent bulbs more often as they consume 10% less power then the normal bulbs.
7.Seal off unused rooms. Turn thermostats off and leave vents closed in unoccupied rooms to save energy.
8.Number of electrical lighting points to be reduced to one per room, in side the flats. All additional fittings to be removed / permanently switched off.
9.Unplug electronic devices and chargers when they aren't in use-most new electronics use electricity even when switched "off." Turn computers and printers off at the power strip.
10.When purchasing a dishwasher, look for energy saving features such as a short wash cycle. Shorter washing cycles, with fewer rinses, save water and water-heating energy.
11.If you have a freezer or second refrigerator that is nearly empty, turn it off. Use second appliances only when necessary or have them removed.
12.Cleanout beneath and behind the fridge every month or so, for better air flow & cleaning of dust deposits to get better heat transfer.
13.Allow hot food to cool off before putting it in the refrigerator.
14.Allow foods to partially cool before placing them in the refrigerator. It takes more energy to cool hot food. For added savings, cover foods and liquids. The moisture that is released by uncovered containers increases energy use during the refrigerator's defrost cycle.
15.Turn off your electric range two to three minutes before the end of cooking time. Retained heat will finish the cooking.
16.Nothing is more energy efficient for cooking than your microwave. It uses two-thirds less energy than your stove.
17.Make use of the oven's leftover heat. Your oven retains heat for I5 to 30 minutes after it is turned off. Use that free heat to warm up desserts, rolls or freshen crackers and cookies.
18.Install your dishwasher away from your refrigerator. The dishwasher's heat and moisture make the refrigerator work harder. Keep your refrigerator away from other heat sources such as direct sunlight.
19.Lowering the thermostat setting at bedtime and before leaving the house reduces your energy bills without affecting your comfort.
20.Installing a water-saver flush kit in your toilet can save you thousands of liters of water per year.
21.Insulate your home. Wall, ceiling, floor and attic insulation will keep warmth in during the winter and heat out during the summer.
22.Never turn your thermostat way up or way down to speed up the heating or cooling process. This will force your unit to work harder, stay on longer and use more energy.
23.Each wash cycle uses upto 60 to 90 liters of water. Use washing machine on full load and plan washing periodicity to save on water too.
24.Follow detergent instructions carefully. Adding too much detergent actually hampers effective washing action and may require more energy in the form of extra rinses.
25.Select the correct drying time. Don't over dry your clothes. Besides wasting energy, over drying can give clothes a harsh feel and cause unnecessary wrinkling and shrinkage.
26.Wash full loads only, but don't overload. It takes about as much energy to wash a small load as it does to wash a full load. Full loads also save water.
27.Remove clothes from the dryer as soon as tumbling stops. If clothes become wrinkled from lying in the dryer, extra energy must be used to iron or dry them again.
28.Ensure floor registers and baseboard heaters are not blocked by furniture, carpets or drapes, limiting effectiveness.
29.Use a microwave or convection oven instead of a conventional oven whenever possible. Microwave ovens use about one-third and convection ovens about two-thirds of the energy used by conventional ovens to cook the same amount of food.
30.Look for alternate sources of energy, like solar and wind energy.
Ways to save Energy while Driving
1.Do not use choke, unless necessary (only necessary in cold season or, if car is not properly tuned)
2.When choke is used, put it off as soon as engine is warmed up.
3.After braking to reduce speed, unless the car is brought to a dead stop, don't use first gear but only second or third depending upon the speed.
4.Always start in 1st gear (to get max. power). Run upto approx. 10 km. per hour before changing to 2nd gear; 20/25 km. p. h. before changing to 3rd and about 30/32 km. p. h. before changing to 4th gear.
5.When there is starting trouble, depress clutch to start the engine(this would take load off engine)
6.Avoid frequent starts/stops, to reduce fuel consumption, battery wastage, and starter overheating/failure.
7.To obtain optimum fuel consumption, maintain car speed as far as possible, between 55 to 60 km. Per hour.
8.Never race engine when declutched. Declutch fully when changing gears. Never ride on clutch pedal (this increases clutch wear and fuel consumption).
9.Switch to lower gears on gradients (up/down) at the right time - when you find the vehicle dragging/speeding.
10.You should turn off the engines of your vehicle on long red-lights or when stationed at one place for more than 2-3 minutes.
11.You can also avoid using the AC, which ups the fuel consumption of a car, if the outside weather is good.
12.Driving fast is not only hazardous to your personal safety; it also consumes a lot of fuel.
Ways to Save Energy at Home:
1.Turn off air conditioning systems in un-occupied rooms and try to keep the room cool by keeping the curtains. Doing this will help in conserving energy and less consumption.
2.Turn off the lights when leaving the rooms and use dim lights in galleries, lobbies, balconies and bathrooms.
3.Make maximum use of sunlight during the day. Drapes or curtains on windows & doors are to be drawn apart during day time, for natural light to reduce need for electrical lights inside the home.
4.Geysers consume the maximum amount of electricity. Use them to heat only that amount of water that is required. Thermostat can be set to a lower temperature i.e. 45 to 50 degrees.
5.Switch Off Appliances When Not In Use. Never forget to switch off lights, fans, refrigerators when you are going out for an outing on the weeekend.
6.Use compact fluorescent bulbs more often as they consume 10% less power then the normal bulbs.
7.Seal off unused rooms. Turn thermostats off and leave vents closed in unoccupied rooms to save energy.
8.Number of electrical lighting points to be reduced to one per room, in side the flats. All additional fittings to be removed / permanently switched off.
9.Unplug electronic devices and chargers when they aren't in use-most new electronics use electricity even when switched "off." Turn computers and printers off at the power strip.
10.When purchasing a dishwasher, look for energy saving features such as a short wash cycle. Shorter washing cycles, with fewer rinses, save water and water-heating energy.
11.If you have a freezer or second refrigerator that is nearly empty, turn it off. Use second appliances only when necessary or have them removed.
12.Cleanout beneath and behind the fridge every month or so, for better air flow & cleaning of dust deposits to get better heat transfer.
13.Allow hot food to cool off before putting it in the refrigerator.
14.Allow foods to partially cool before placing them in the refrigerator. It takes more energy to cool hot food. For added savings, cover foods and liquids. The moisture that is released by uncovered containers increases energy use during the refrigerator's defrost cycle.
15.Turn off your electric range two to three minutes before the end of cooking time. Retained heat will finish the cooking.
16.Nothing is more energy efficient for cooking than your microwave. It uses two-thirds less energy than your stove.
17.Make use of the oven's leftover heat. Your oven retains heat for I5 to 30 minutes after it is turned off. Use that free heat to warm up desserts, rolls or freshen crackers and cookies.
18.Install your dishwasher away from your refrigerator. The dishwasher's heat and moisture make the refrigerator work harder. Keep your refrigerator away from other heat sources such as direct sunlight.
19.Lowering the thermostat setting at bedtime and before leaving the house reduces your energy bills without affecting your comfort.
20.Installing a water-saver flush kit in your toilet can save you thousands of liters of water per year.
21.Insulate your home. Wall, ceiling, floor and attic insulation will keep warmth in during the winter and heat out during the summer.
22.Never turn your thermostat way up or way down to speed up the heating or cooling process. This will force your unit to work harder, stay on longer and use more energy.
23.Each wash cycle uses upto 60 to 90 liters of water. Use washing machine on full load and plan washing periodicity to save on water too.
24.Follow detergent instructions carefully. Adding too much detergent actually hampers effective washing action and may require more energy in the form of extra rinses.
25.Select the correct drying time. Don't over dry your clothes. Besides wasting energy, over drying can give clothes a harsh feel and cause unnecessary wrinkling and shrinkage.
26.Wash full loads only, but don't overload. It takes about as much energy to wash a small load as it does to wash a full load. Full loads also save water.
27.Remove clothes from the dryer as soon as tumbling stops. If clothes become wrinkled from lying in the dryer, extra energy must be used to iron or dry them again.
28.Ensure floor registers and baseboard heaters are not blocked by furniture, carpets or drapes, limiting effectiveness.
29.Use a microwave or convection oven instead of a conventional oven whenever possible. Microwave ovens use about one-third and convection ovens about two-thirds of the energy used by conventional ovens to cook the same amount of food.
30.Look for alternate sources of energy, like solar and wind energy.
Ways to save Energy while Driving
1.Do not use choke, unless necessary (only necessary in cold season or, if car is not properly tuned)
2.When choke is used, put it off as soon as engine is warmed up.
3.After braking to reduce speed, unless the car is brought to a dead stop, don't use first gear but only second or third depending upon the speed.
4.Always start in 1st gear (to get max. power). Run upto approx. 10 km. per hour before changing to 2nd gear; 20/25 km. p. h. before changing to 3rd and about 30/32 km. p. h. before changing to 4th gear.
5.When there is starting trouble, depress clutch to start the engine(this would take load off engine)
6.Avoid frequent starts/stops, to reduce fuel consumption, battery wastage, and starter overheating/failure.
7.To obtain optimum fuel consumption, maintain car speed as far as possible, between 55 to 60 km. Per hour.
8.Never race engine when declutched. Declutch fully when changing gears. Never ride on clutch pedal (this increases clutch wear and fuel consumption).
9.Switch to lower gears on gradients (up/down) at the right time - when you find the vehicle dragging/speeding.
10.You should turn off the engines of your vehicle on long red-lights or when stationed at one place for more than 2-3 minutes.
11.You can also avoid using the AC, which ups the fuel consumption of a car, if the outside weather is good.
12.Driving fast is not only hazardous to your personal safety; it also consumes a lot of fuel.
Energy-efficient Motors
Energy-efficient Motors
Of all the electricity used in the commercial sector. Most motors in the commercial sector are used to power fans and
pumps in the heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) systems. It’s not unusual for a motor to consume many
times its capital cost in electricity every year. For all these reasons, it’s clear that the motors in your building probably
offer significant opportunities for savings.
Types of Motors
“Induction” motors are by far the most common type found in commercial buildings. They are used in approximately 90
percent of applications, so chances are you have quite a few of them in your facility. They are reliable and inexpensive
and operate on single-phase or three-phase power, although most motors larger than one horsepower are three-phase.
When comparing motors, the most common characteristics to be aware of include: enclosure type, speed, efficiency and
service factor. When replacing a motor, be sure to compare these specifications on the replacement motor with those
recommended by the equipment manufacturer.
Enclosure type – The motor enclosure refers to the casing of the motor and is designed to match the motor to its
operating conditions. The two most common types are Open Drip-Proof (ODP) and Totally Enclosed Fan-Cooled (TEFC).
ODP motors are made with ventilation openings in the casing that are positioned to keep liquid or particles from falling
into the motor from above. They are a very common motor for HVAC fans and pumps. TEFC motors have enclosed
casings, as the name implies, to keep moisture and particles out. They are equipped with an integral fan for cooling and
typically are used in dirtier or wetter environments.
Speed – Induction motors are available in a wide range of speeds although 1,800 revolutions per minute (RPM) is the
most common, accounting for more than 50 percent of the motor population. Motors of 1,200 and 3,600 RPM also are
popular enough to be stocked by distributors and manufacturers.
Efficiency – Standard-efficiency and energy-efficient three-phase motors are available from most manufacturers of ODP
and TEFC motors in speeds of 1,200, 1,800 and 3,600 RPM. Some manufacturers also offer a line of premium efficiency
motors. Higher efficiency motors are built with higher quality materials and other design features that improve their
performance over standard models.
Service factor – The service factor specifies the capacity of the motor to withstand prolonged overload conditions. A
service factor of 1.0 indicates that prolonged operation above full load can damage the motor. A service factor of 1.15 is
typical for motors one horsepower and above, and indicates that the motor can work at 1.15 times its rated horsepower
without failing.
Ways to Save on Motor Energy Costs
Turn it off – The simplest and most obvious method of saving motor energy is simply to turn it off when its not needed.
Motors often run unnoticed when they are not needed, increasing energy costs. Motors can be switched manually and this
is a fine solution for many applications, but there are also timers and sensors available that will turn them off
automatically. Examples of motors that could be turned off at night include those for service hot water circulation, air
compressors and ventilation fans.
2
Reduce the speed on a fan motor – Another simple method of reducing motor energy costs is to reduce the speed of an
HVAC fan. Energy consumption of fans and pumps varies according to the speed raised to the third power, so small
changes in speed can make big changes in energy consumption. The chart below shows the relationship of fan speed in
revolutions per minute (RPM) to power
consumption. Most HVAC equipment
comes from the factory with fan motor
speeds preset, although they can often be
reset on-site by an HVAC technician if a
slower speed will still deliver the
necessary airflow. Be sure to check with
your technician or building engineer
before reducing fan speeds to make sure
that doing so won’t adversely affect
indoor conditions. Most air conditioning
equipment is designed to deliver about
400 cubic feet per minute of airflow per
ton of cooling capacity in order to
function properly.
Use variable speed drives (VSD) for
variable loads – Some loads driven by
motors don’t need to operate at the same
speed all the time. For example, pumps
and fans often don’t need to produce the
same flow all the time. These types of
loads offer big opportunities for savings by moderating their speed according to their load. For example, reducing a fan’s
average speed by 20 percent with a VSD can reduce energy consumption by more than 40 percent. Actual savings will be
slightly less than those shown on the power consumption graph since variable speed drives themselves aren’t 100 percent
efficient. Some examples of potential VSD savings are provided in the table below.
Potential Savings from Variable Speed Drives for Fans and Pumps
Average Percent
Speed Reduction
Potential Energy
Savings
Annual Energy Cost
Savings for a 5
Horsepower Motor
Annual Energy Cost
Savings for a 10
Horsepower Motor
10% 22% $272 $543
20% 44% $543 $1,087
30% 61% $753 $1,506
40% 73% $901 $1,803
50% 83% $1,025 $2,050
60% 89% $1,099 $2,198
Note: The annual cost savings estimate assumes a 5 or 10 horsepower motor operating
3500 hours per year at the average speed reduction shown in the chart. The potential
energy savings assume approximately five percent energy losses due to the VSD.
Specify energy-efficient motors – When replacing an existing motor or when specifying new equipment, consider using
a high-efficiency motor. High-efficiency motors use better quality materials and are manufactured to higher quality
specifications than standard-efficiency motors. They are five to 10 percent more efficient on average than standard motors
in the smaller sizes (25 horsepower or less). Federal efficiency standards now require minimum efficiencies for electric
Motor Power Consumption Vs. Speed
for HVAC Fans and Pumps
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
100%
10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100%
Rated RPM (%)
Power Consumption (%)
3
motors so the older motors in your facility are likely to be less efficient than the lowest efficiency motors of that size you
can buy now.1
Be sure to check with the manufacturer or your building engineer when installing energy-efficient motors on fan and
pump applications because some energy-efficient motors have higher speeds than standard motors. As discussed above,
increasing fan or pump speed can actually result in an increase in energy use. So, it’s important to specify that the new
motor has a full load speed no greater than that of the motor it’s replacing. The following table provides a comparison of
the efficiencies of standard- and high-efficiency motors, and examples of potential savings with high-efficiency motors.
Annual Energy Cost Savings With High-Efficiency ODP Motors
Motor Motor Efficiency (%)
Size
(Hp)
Standard-Efficiency
Motor
High-Efficiency
Motor
Annual Energy
Cost Savings
($/yr)
1 76.5 83.8 17.07
1.5 77.4 85.2 26.59
2 79.7 85.8 26.74
3 82.6 88.4 35.71
5 84.1 89.3 51.89
7.5 85.9 91.0 73.34
10 86.9 91.3 83.12
Source: Efficiencies: MotorMaster. Assumes 3500 hours per year of operation.
Properly size motors – Many motor systems are oversized, and a significantly oversized motor will run at low efficiency
increasing energy costs. An oversized motor also costs more to buy. The efficiency of most motors peaks around 75 to 80
percent of full load and drops off sharply below 40 to 50 percent of full load, although these ranges vary by design and
manufacturer.2 High-efficiency motors tend to maintain their efficiency over a wider range of loads than standard motors.
Motors loaded below 50 percent are almost
always attractive candidates for replacement.
However, because the relationship between
efficiency and load varies among different
types and sizes of motors, be sure to check
with the manufacturer or building engineer
before replacing an oversized motor.
Reduce the load – Often it’s possible to
reduce the load on a motor and save energy
by reducing pressure losses in pipe and duct
runs with low-pressure loss elbows and
fittings. Duct and pipe systems with lower
pressure losses (usually expressed as “static
pressure”) can often use a slower speed fan or
pump to deliver the same amount of flow. As
shown above, this can result in big savings.
Other ways to reduce the load on a motor
system include aligning the motor drive, and
replacing inefficient drivetrains such as belts, chains, and gears with direct drive systems.
1 The Energy Policy Act of 1992 went in to effect October 24, 1997 establishing minimum efficiency standards for motors of NEMA
design A and B, from 900 to 3600 rpm, between 1 and 200 horsepower.
2 Energy-Efficient Motor Systems, ACEEE, 1991.
Motor Efficiency vs. Load
74%
76%
78%
80%
82%
84%
86%
88%
90%
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100110120130140150
Percent Full Load
Efficiency
Standard efficiency 10 HP
4
Perform regular maintenance – For maximum performance and greatest energy efficiency, lubricate drivetrains
(bearings, chains and gears), keep drive belts at their proper tension, clean fan blades, check pump impeller blades for
wear, and replace air filters regularly. Most maintenance actions pay for themselves with longer lasting equipment and
less downtime even without the energy savings.
Should You Buy New or Rewind?
When you have a motor failure you’ll need to decide if you should buy a new motor or fix the old one. A common cause
of motor failure is problems with the motor windings, and the solution often is to rewind the old motor. Because it is
economical in terms of initial cost, rewinding of motors is very common particularly for motors of more than 10
horsepower. However, the motor rewinding process often results in a loss of motor efficiency. It is generally costeffective
to replace motors under 10 horsepower with new high-efficiency motors rather than rewind them. When
deciding whether to buy a new motor or rewind the old one, consider the cost difference between the rewind and a new
high-efficiency motor, and the potential increase in energy costs of a rewound motor that is less efficient than the original.
For More Information on Energy-efficient Motors
Contact the Web sites of the Association of Energy Engineers, the U.S. Department of Energy’s Energy Efficiency and
Renewable Energy Network (EREN), and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s Energy Star Buildings Program.
The MotorMaster software package is a comprehensive, user-friendly motor selection and evaluation tool that is available
for download from the EREN website.
Of all the electricity used in the commercial sector. Most motors in the commercial sector are used to power fans and
pumps in the heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) systems. It’s not unusual for a motor to consume many
times its capital cost in electricity every year. For all these reasons, it’s clear that the motors in your building probably
offer significant opportunities for savings.
Types of Motors
“Induction” motors are by far the most common type found in commercial buildings. They are used in approximately 90
percent of applications, so chances are you have quite a few of them in your facility. They are reliable and inexpensive
and operate on single-phase or three-phase power, although most motors larger than one horsepower are three-phase.
When comparing motors, the most common characteristics to be aware of include: enclosure type, speed, efficiency and
service factor. When replacing a motor, be sure to compare these specifications on the replacement motor with those
recommended by the equipment manufacturer.
Enclosure type – The motor enclosure refers to the casing of the motor and is designed to match the motor to its
operating conditions. The two most common types are Open Drip-Proof (ODP) and Totally Enclosed Fan-Cooled (TEFC).
ODP motors are made with ventilation openings in the casing that are positioned to keep liquid or particles from falling
into the motor from above. They are a very common motor for HVAC fans and pumps. TEFC motors have enclosed
casings, as the name implies, to keep moisture and particles out. They are equipped with an integral fan for cooling and
typically are used in dirtier or wetter environments.
Speed – Induction motors are available in a wide range of speeds although 1,800 revolutions per minute (RPM) is the
most common, accounting for more than 50 percent of the motor population. Motors of 1,200 and 3,600 RPM also are
popular enough to be stocked by distributors and manufacturers.
Efficiency – Standard-efficiency and energy-efficient three-phase motors are available from most manufacturers of ODP
and TEFC motors in speeds of 1,200, 1,800 and 3,600 RPM. Some manufacturers also offer a line of premium efficiency
motors. Higher efficiency motors are built with higher quality materials and other design features that improve their
performance over standard models.
Service factor – The service factor specifies the capacity of the motor to withstand prolonged overload conditions. A
service factor of 1.0 indicates that prolonged operation above full load can damage the motor. A service factor of 1.15 is
typical for motors one horsepower and above, and indicates that the motor can work at 1.15 times its rated horsepower
without failing.
Ways to Save on Motor Energy Costs
Turn it off – The simplest and most obvious method of saving motor energy is simply to turn it off when its not needed.
Motors often run unnoticed when they are not needed, increasing energy costs. Motors can be switched manually and this
is a fine solution for many applications, but there are also timers and sensors available that will turn them off
automatically. Examples of motors that could be turned off at night include those for service hot water circulation, air
compressors and ventilation fans.
2
Reduce the speed on a fan motor – Another simple method of reducing motor energy costs is to reduce the speed of an
HVAC fan. Energy consumption of fans and pumps varies according to the speed raised to the third power, so small
changes in speed can make big changes in energy consumption. The chart below shows the relationship of fan speed in
revolutions per minute (RPM) to power
consumption. Most HVAC equipment
comes from the factory with fan motor
speeds preset, although they can often be
reset on-site by an HVAC technician if a
slower speed will still deliver the
necessary airflow. Be sure to check with
your technician or building engineer
before reducing fan speeds to make sure
that doing so won’t adversely affect
indoor conditions. Most air conditioning
equipment is designed to deliver about
400 cubic feet per minute of airflow per
ton of cooling capacity in order to
function properly.
Use variable speed drives (VSD) for
variable loads – Some loads driven by
motors don’t need to operate at the same
speed all the time. For example, pumps
and fans often don’t need to produce the
same flow all the time. These types of
loads offer big opportunities for savings by moderating their speed according to their load. For example, reducing a fan’s
average speed by 20 percent with a VSD can reduce energy consumption by more than 40 percent. Actual savings will be
slightly less than those shown on the power consumption graph since variable speed drives themselves aren’t 100 percent
efficient. Some examples of potential VSD savings are provided in the table below.
Potential Savings from Variable Speed Drives for Fans and Pumps
Average Percent
Speed Reduction
Potential Energy
Savings
Annual Energy Cost
Savings for a 5
Horsepower Motor
Annual Energy Cost
Savings for a 10
Horsepower Motor
10% 22% $272 $543
20% 44% $543 $1,087
30% 61% $753 $1,506
40% 73% $901 $1,803
50% 83% $1,025 $2,050
60% 89% $1,099 $2,198
Note: The annual cost savings estimate assumes a 5 or 10 horsepower motor operating
3500 hours per year at the average speed reduction shown in the chart. The potential
energy savings assume approximately five percent energy losses due to the VSD.
Specify energy-efficient motors – When replacing an existing motor or when specifying new equipment, consider using
a high-efficiency motor. High-efficiency motors use better quality materials and are manufactured to higher quality
specifications than standard-efficiency motors. They are five to 10 percent more efficient on average than standard motors
in the smaller sizes (25 horsepower or less). Federal efficiency standards now require minimum efficiencies for electric
Motor Power Consumption Vs. Speed
for HVAC Fans and Pumps
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
100%
10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100%
Rated RPM (%)
Power Consumption (%)
3
motors so the older motors in your facility are likely to be less efficient than the lowest efficiency motors of that size you
can buy now.1
Be sure to check with the manufacturer or your building engineer when installing energy-efficient motors on fan and
pump applications because some energy-efficient motors have higher speeds than standard motors. As discussed above,
increasing fan or pump speed can actually result in an increase in energy use. So, it’s important to specify that the new
motor has a full load speed no greater than that of the motor it’s replacing. The following table provides a comparison of
the efficiencies of standard- and high-efficiency motors, and examples of potential savings with high-efficiency motors.
Annual Energy Cost Savings With High-Efficiency ODP Motors
Motor Motor Efficiency (%)
Size
(Hp)
Standard-Efficiency
Motor
High-Efficiency
Motor
Annual Energy
Cost Savings
($/yr)
1 76.5 83.8 17.07
1.5 77.4 85.2 26.59
2 79.7 85.8 26.74
3 82.6 88.4 35.71
5 84.1 89.3 51.89
7.5 85.9 91.0 73.34
10 86.9 91.3 83.12
Source: Efficiencies: MotorMaster. Assumes 3500 hours per year of operation.
Properly size motors – Many motor systems are oversized, and a significantly oversized motor will run at low efficiency
increasing energy costs. An oversized motor also costs more to buy. The efficiency of most motors peaks around 75 to 80
percent of full load and drops off sharply below 40 to 50 percent of full load, although these ranges vary by design and
manufacturer.2 High-efficiency motors tend to maintain their efficiency over a wider range of loads than standard motors.
Motors loaded below 50 percent are almost
always attractive candidates for replacement.
However, because the relationship between
efficiency and load varies among different
types and sizes of motors, be sure to check
with the manufacturer or building engineer
before replacing an oversized motor.
Reduce the load – Often it’s possible to
reduce the load on a motor and save energy
by reducing pressure losses in pipe and duct
runs with low-pressure loss elbows and
fittings. Duct and pipe systems with lower
pressure losses (usually expressed as “static
pressure”) can often use a slower speed fan or
pump to deliver the same amount of flow. As
shown above, this can result in big savings.
Other ways to reduce the load on a motor
system include aligning the motor drive, and
replacing inefficient drivetrains such as belts, chains, and gears with direct drive systems.
1 The Energy Policy Act of 1992 went in to effect October 24, 1997 establishing minimum efficiency standards for motors of NEMA
design A and B, from 900 to 3600 rpm, between 1 and 200 horsepower.
2 Energy-Efficient Motor Systems, ACEEE, 1991.
Motor Efficiency vs. Load
74%
76%
78%
80%
82%
84%
86%
88%
90%
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100110120130140150
Percent Full Load
Efficiency
Standard efficiency 10 HP
4
Perform regular maintenance – For maximum performance and greatest energy efficiency, lubricate drivetrains
(bearings, chains and gears), keep drive belts at their proper tension, clean fan blades, check pump impeller blades for
wear, and replace air filters regularly. Most maintenance actions pay for themselves with longer lasting equipment and
less downtime even without the energy savings.
Should You Buy New or Rewind?
When you have a motor failure you’ll need to decide if you should buy a new motor or fix the old one. A common cause
of motor failure is problems with the motor windings, and the solution often is to rewind the old motor. Because it is
economical in terms of initial cost, rewinding of motors is very common particularly for motors of more than 10
horsepower. However, the motor rewinding process often results in a loss of motor efficiency. It is generally costeffective
to replace motors under 10 horsepower with new high-efficiency motors rather than rewind them. When
deciding whether to buy a new motor or rewind the old one, consider the cost difference between the rewind and a new
high-efficiency motor, and the potential increase in energy costs of a rewound motor that is less efficient than the original.
For More Information on Energy-efficient Motors
Contact the Web sites of the Association of Energy Engineers, the U.S. Department of Energy’s Energy Efficiency and
Renewable Energy Network (EREN), and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s Energy Star Buildings Program.
The MotorMaster software package is a comprehensive, user-friendly motor selection and evaluation tool that is available
for download from the EREN website.
Energy savings tips
Energy savings tips
Wash clothes in cold water. You might guess that most of the energy used by a washing machine goes into
vigorously swishing the clothes around. In fact, about 90 percent of it is spent elsewhere, heating the water for
the load. You can save substantially by washing and rinsing at cooler temperatures. Warm water helps the suds to
get at the dirt, but cold-water detergents will work effectively for just about everything in the hamper.
1.
Hang it up. Clotheslines aren't just a bit of backyard nostalgia. They really work, given a stretch of decent
weather. You spare the energy a dryer would use, and your clothes will smell as fresh as all outdoors without the
perfumes in fabric softeners and dryer sheets. You'll also get more useful life out of clothes dried on indoor or
outdoor clotheslines--after all, dryer lint is nothing but your wardrobe in the process of wearing out.
2.
Don't overdry your laundry. Clothes will need less ironing and hold up better if you remove them from the dryer
while they're still just a bit damp. If you are in the market for a dryer, look for one with a moisture sensor; it will be
less likely than thermostat-equipped models to run too long.
3.
Let the dishwasher do the work. Don't bother prerinsing dishes with the idea that your dishwasher will work less
hard. Consumer Reports has found that this added step can waste 20 gallons of heated water a day. All you need
to do is scrape off leftover food. Enzyme-based detergents will help make sure the dishes emerge spotless.
4.
Put your PC to sleep. Keep your computer and its monitor in sleep mode rather than leaving them on around the
clock. You stand to use 80 percent less electricity, which over the course of a year could have the effect of
cutting CO2 emissions by up to 1,250 pounds, according to EPA estimates.
5.
Turn down the heat in the winter, and turn down the cool in the summer. Lower the thermostat 5° to 10° F when
you're sleeping or are out of the house. "A 10° decrease can cut your heating bill by as much as 20 percent,"
says Jim Nanni, manager of the appliance and home-improvement testing department of Consumer Reports. And
before you put on a cotton sweater to ward off a slight chill from the AC in summer, consider that for every degree
you raise the thermostat setting, you can expect to cut your cooling costs by at least 3 percent.
6.
A cold hearth for a warmer house. A conventional fireplace draws a small gale out of the room and sends it up
the chimney. Assuming the indoor air has been warmed by your central heating system, that means your energy
dollars are going up the chimney, too. Instead, consider a direct-vent, sealed-combustion gas fireplace. Consumer
Reports has found that those units have an energy efficiency of about 70 percent--and the sight of the flames is a
lot more warming than staring at a radiator.
7.
Lower the shades and raise the windows. Not at the same time, of course, but your windows and shades are
great tools to help moderate temperatures in the home. Because of central air conditioning, we tend to forget
these time-tested, traditional ways of making the house comfortable. Shades are particularly helpful in blocking the
sun from west-facing rooms in the afternoon. At night, if the forecast calls for cooler temperatures and low
humidity, give the AC a rest. Open windows upstairs and down, and use window fans or a whole-house fan.
8.
Put a spin on 9. home cooling. You can operate a couple of fans with a fraction of the electricity needed for air
ConsumerReports.org - 20 free ways to save energy http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/appliances/news/20-free-ways-to...
2 of 3 8/26/08 1:00 PM
conditioning, and their cooling effect may make it possible to cut back on AC use.
Take care of your air conditioner, and it will take care of you. Your air conditioner will run more efficiently if you
clean or replace its filter every other week during heaviest use. Keep leaves and other debris away from the
central air's exterior condenser, and keep the condenser coils clean.
10.
Spend less for hot water. Set the hot water heater at 120° F (or the "low" setting), which is hot enough for most
needs. If the tank feels warm to the touch, consider wrapping it with conventional insulation or a blanket made for
that purpose. To help conserve the water's heat on its way to the faucets, insulate the plumbing with pipe sleeves;
with these, you can raise the end-use temperature by 2° to 4° F.
11.
Think twice before turning on the oven. Heating food in the microwave uses only 20 percent of the energy
required by a full-sized oven. And while the second-hand heat from the oven may be welcome in winter, it can put
an added load on your air conditioner in warmer months.
12.
Use the right pan. When cooking on the stovetop, pick your pan, then put it on an element or burner that's
roughly the same size. You'll use much less energy than you would with a mismatched burner and pan. Steam
foods instead of boiling. If you do boil, be sure to put a lid on the pot to make the water come to a boil faster.
13.
Read the label. The EnergyGuide label, that is. When you shop for a new appliance, look for the label that gives
an estimate of annual energy consumption. To help you make sense of that statistic, the label also states the
highest and lowest figures for similar models.
14.
Dust off the Crock-15. Pot. Slow cooking in a Crock-Pot uses a lot less energy than simmering on the stove.
Clean the coils on your refrigerator using a tapered appliance brush. Your fridge's motor won't have to run as
long or as often. In addition to saving energy dollars, you'll prolong the life of the appliance.
16.
Drive steadily--and a bit slower. Hard acceleration and abrupt braking will use more fuel than if you start and
slow more moderately. Keeping down your overall speed matters, too, because aerodynamic drag increases
dramatically as you drive faster. If you travel at 65 mph instead of 55, you are penalized by lowering your mileage
12.5 percent. If you get your vehicle up to 75 mph, you're losing 25 percent compared with mileage at 55 mph.
17.
Roof racks are a drag. Most cars are reasonably streamlined, but you work against their slipperiness if you carry
things on the roof. A loaded roof rack can decrease an SUV's fuel efficiency by 5 percent, and that of a more
aerodynamic car by 15 percent or more. Even driving with empty ski racks wastes gas.
18.
Stick with regular. If your car's manufacturer specifies regular gas, don't buy premium with the thought of going
faster or operating more efficiently. You'd be spending more with no benefit. Most cars have built-in sensors that
adjust the engine timing to the gas in the tank. Even if the owner's manual recommends high-octane gas, ask the
dealership about switching to regular.
19.
No loitering. Don't let the engine run at idle any longer than necessary. After starting the car in the morning, begin
driving right away; don't let it sit and "warm up" for several minutes. An engine actually warms up faster while
driving. With most gasoline engines, it's more efficient to turn off the engine than to idle longer than 30 seconds.
20.
And if you don't mind spending a few dollars:
A tighter home is a toastier home. Insulation is your home's first line of defense against the weather, right?
Wrong. Before you bulk up with fiberglass blankets, seal the leaks. Inexpensive foam strips and caulking can cut
your heating and cooling bills by 5 to 30 percent.
1.
Try do-it-yourself low-E windows. If your windows don't have a low-E coating, consider applying a self-adhesive
film on the glass. This treatment is a lot cheaper than replacing the units, and better-quality films are quite
durable.
2.
Use a programmable thermostat. Roughly half of the typical home's energy bill goes for heating and cooling,
according to the Department of Energy. The easiest way to save, short of sweating or shivering, is to use
programmable thermostats. They can pay for themselves in about a year.
3.
Switch to those funny-looking fluorescents. You may not be familiar with compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs), but
give them a try. A single bulb can save from $25 to $45 over its life. And it's a long life: Manufacturers claim that
CFLs last between 5 and 13 times longer than standard incandescent bulbs or better LED.
Wash clothes in cold water. You might guess that most of the energy used by a washing machine goes into
vigorously swishing the clothes around. In fact, about 90 percent of it is spent elsewhere, heating the water for
the load. You can save substantially by washing and rinsing at cooler temperatures. Warm water helps the suds to
get at the dirt, but cold-water detergents will work effectively for just about everything in the hamper.
1.
Hang it up. Clotheslines aren't just a bit of backyard nostalgia. They really work, given a stretch of decent
weather. You spare the energy a dryer would use, and your clothes will smell as fresh as all outdoors without the
perfumes in fabric softeners and dryer sheets. You'll also get more useful life out of clothes dried on indoor or
outdoor clotheslines--after all, dryer lint is nothing but your wardrobe in the process of wearing out.
2.
Don't overdry your laundry. Clothes will need less ironing and hold up better if you remove them from the dryer
while they're still just a bit damp. If you are in the market for a dryer, look for one with a moisture sensor; it will be
less likely than thermostat-equipped models to run too long.
3.
Let the dishwasher do the work. Don't bother prerinsing dishes with the idea that your dishwasher will work less
hard. Consumer Reports has found that this added step can waste 20 gallons of heated water a day. All you need
to do is scrape off leftover food. Enzyme-based detergents will help make sure the dishes emerge spotless.
4.
Put your PC to sleep. Keep your computer and its monitor in sleep mode rather than leaving them on around the
clock. You stand to use 80 percent less electricity, which over the course of a year could have the effect of
cutting CO2 emissions by up to 1,250 pounds, according to EPA estimates.
5.
Turn down the heat in the winter, and turn down the cool in the summer. Lower the thermostat 5° to 10° F when
you're sleeping or are out of the house. "A 10° decrease can cut your heating bill by as much as 20 percent,"
says Jim Nanni, manager of the appliance and home-improvement testing department of Consumer Reports. And
before you put on a cotton sweater to ward off a slight chill from the AC in summer, consider that for every degree
you raise the thermostat setting, you can expect to cut your cooling costs by at least 3 percent.
6.
A cold hearth for a warmer house. A conventional fireplace draws a small gale out of the room and sends it up
the chimney. Assuming the indoor air has been warmed by your central heating system, that means your energy
dollars are going up the chimney, too. Instead, consider a direct-vent, sealed-combustion gas fireplace. Consumer
Reports has found that those units have an energy efficiency of about 70 percent--and the sight of the flames is a
lot more warming than staring at a radiator.
7.
Lower the shades and raise the windows. Not at the same time, of course, but your windows and shades are
great tools to help moderate temperatures in the home. Because of central air conditioning, we tend to forget
these time-tested, traditional ways of making the house comfortable. Shades are particularly helpful in blocking the
sun from west-facing rooms in the afternoon. At night, if the forecast calls for cooler temperatures and low
humidity, give the AC a rest. Open windows upstairs and down, and use window fans or a whole-house fan.
8.
Put a spin on 9. home cooling. You can operate a couple of fans with a fraction of the electricity needed for air
ConsumerReports.org - 20 free ways to save energy http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/appliances/news/20-free-ways-to...
2 of 3 8/26/08 1:00 PM
conditioning, and their cooling effect may make it possible to cut back on AC use.
Take care of your air conditioner, and it will take care of you. Your air conditioner will run more efficiently if you
clean or replace its filter every other week during heaviest use. Keep leaves and other debris away from the
central air's exterior condenser, and keep the condenser coils clean.
10.
Spend less for hot water. Set the hot water heater at 120° F (or the "low" setting), which is hot enough for most
needs. If the tank feels warm to the touch, consider wrapping it with conventional insulation or a blanket made for
that purpose. To help conserve the water's heat on its way to the faucets, insulate the plumbing with pipe sleeves;
with these, you can raise the end-use temperature by 2° to 4° F.
11.
Think twice before turning on the oven. Heating food in the microwave uses only 20 percent of the energy
required by a full-sized oven. And while the second-hand heat from the oven may be welcome in winter, it can put
an added load on your air conditioner in warmer months.
12.
Use the right pan. When cooking on the stovetop, pick your pan, then put it on an element or burner that's
roughly the same size. You'll use much less energy than you would with a mismatched burner and pan. Steam
foods instead of boiling. If you do boil, be sure to put a lid on the pot to make the water come to a boil faster.
13.
Read the label. The EnergyGuide label, that is. When you shop for a new appliance, look for the label that gives
an estimate of annual energy consumption. To help you make sense of that statistic, the label also states the
highest and lowest figures for similar models.
14.
Dust off the Crock-15. Pot. Slow cooking in a Crock-Pot uses a lot less energy than simmering on the stove.
Clean the coils on your refrigerator using a tapered appliance brush. Your fridge's motor won't have to run as
long or as often. In addition to saving energy dollars, you'll prolong the life of the appliance.
16.
Drive steadily--and a bit slower. Hard acceleration and abrupt braking will use more fuel than if you start and
slow more moderately. Keeping down your overall speed matters, too, because aerodynamic drag increases
dramatically as you drive faster. If you travel at 65 mph instead of 55, you are penalized by lowering your mileage
12.5 percent. If you get your vehicle up to 75 mph, you're losing 25 percent compared with mileage at 55 mph.
17.
Roof racks are a drag. Most cars are reasonably streamlined, but you work against their slipperiness if you carry
things on the roof. A loaded roof rack can decrease an SUV's fuel efficiency by 5 percent, and that of a more
aerodynamic car by 15 percent or more. Even driving with empty ski racks wastes gas.
18.
Stick with regular. If your car's manufacturer specifies regular gas, don't buy premium with the thought of going
faster or operating more efficiently. You'd be spending more with no benefit. Most cars have built-in sensors that
adjust the engine timing to the gas in the tank. Even if the owner's manual recommends high-octane gas, ask the
dealership about switching to regular.
19.
No loitering. Don't let the engine run at idle any longer than necessary. After starting the car in the morning, begin
driving right away; don't let it sit and "warm up" for several minutes. An engine actually warms up faster while
driving. With most gasoline engines, it's more efficient to turn off the engine than to idle longer than 30 seconds.
20.
And if you don't mind spending a few dollars:
A tighter home is a toastier home. Insulation is your home's first line of defense against the weather, right?
Wrong. Before you bulk up with fiberglass blankets, seal the leaks. Inexpensive foam strips and caulking can cut
your heating and cooling bills by 5 to 30 percent.
1.
Try do-it-yourself low-E windows. If your windows don't have a low-E coating, consider applying a self-adhesive
film on the glass. This treatment is a lot cheaper than replacing the units, and better-quality films are quite
durable.
2.
Use a programmable thermostat. Roughly half of the typical home's energy bill goes for heating and cooling,
according to the Department of Energy. The easiest way to save, short of sweating or shivering, is to use
programmable thermostats. They can pay for themselves in about a year.
3.
Switch to those funny-looking fluorescents. You may not be familiar with compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs), but
give them a try. A single bulb can save from $25 to $45 over its life. And it's a long life: Manufacturers claim that
CFLs last between 5 and 13 times longer than standard incandescent bulbs or better LED.
101 Ways You Can Save Energy at Home
101 Ways You Can Save Energy at Home
Water Heating
1. Set water heater temperature no higher than 120 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. For households with one or two members, a 115-degree Fahrenheit setting may work fine.
3. Install water-heater wrap per manufacturer’s instructions.
4. Drain 1-2 gallons from bottom of water heater each year to reduce sediment buildup.
5. Install heat traps on hot and cold water lines when it’s time to replace your water heater.
6. Insulate exposed hot water lines.
7. Limit shower length to 5-7 minutes.
8. Install low-flow showerheads.
9. Fix dripping faucets.
10. Don’t let water run while you are shaving.
11. Don’t let water run while brushing your teeth.
Laundry
12. Wash clothes in cold water. Use hot water only for very dirty loads.
13. Do only full laundry loads.
14. If you must do smaller loads, adjust the water level in the washing machine to match the load size, especially when using hot water.
15. Always use cold-water rinse.
16. Use bath towels at least twice before washing them.
17. Clean your dryer’s lint trap before each load.
18. Make sure the outdoor dryer exhaust door closes when the dryer is off.
19. Verify that the dryer vent hose is tightly connected to inside wall fitting.
20. Check that the dryer vent hose is tightly connected to dryer.
21. Make sure dryer vent hose is not kinked or clogged.
22. Minimize clothes drying time; use moisture sensor on dryer if available.
23. Dry consecutive loads to harvest heat remaining in dryer from last load.
24. Consider using a “solar-powered” clothes dryer — an old-fashioned clothesline.
Kitchen
25. Use your refrigerator’s anti-sweat feature only if necessary.
26. Switch your refrigerator’s power-saver to “ON,” if available.
27. Clean refrigerator coils annually.
28. Set the refrigerator temperature to 34- 37 degrees Fahrenheit and freezer temperature to 0-5 degrees Fahrenheit.
29. Ensure that gaskets around door seal tightly.
30. Unplug unused refrigerators or freezers.
31. Use microwave for cooking when possible.
32. When cooking on the oven range, use pot lids to help food cook faster.
33. If you are heating water, use hot tap water instead of cold.
34. Remember to use the kitchen exhaust fan when cooking and turn it off after cooking.
35. Use a Crock-Pot™ instead of simmering foods on the stove.
36. Rinse dirty dishes with cold water before putting them into the dishwasher.
37. Use cold water for garbage disposal.
38. Run dishwasher only when fully loaded.
39. Use air-dry cycle instead of heat-dry cycle to dry dishes.
Lighting
40. Replace any lightbulb that burns more than one hour per day with its equivalent compact fluorescent bulb.
41. Turn off unnecessary lighting.
42. Replace outdoor lighting with its outdoor-rated equivalent compact fluorescent bulb.
43. Use fixtures with electronic ballasts and T-8, 32-watt fluorescent lamps.
44. Use outdoor security lights with a photocell and/or a motion sensor.
Miscellaneous
45. Turn computers and monitors off when not in use.
46. Make sure electric blankets are turned off in the morning.
47. Turn waterbed heater off when not needed.
48. Turn large-screen TVs off completely when not in use.
49. Turn off stereos and radios when not in use.
50. Remember to turn off hair curling irons and hot rollers.
51. Turn off coffee makers when not in use.
52. Turn off pool pump and/or heater when not needed.
53. Verify livestock water tank heaters are off when not needed.
54. Make sure heat tape is off when not needed.
55. Unplug battery chargers when not needed.
56. Ensure all new appliances purchased are ENERGY STAR approved.
Heating & Air Conditioning
57. Set thermostats to 78 degrees Fahrenheit in summer, 68 degrees Fahrenheit in winter.
58. Run ceiling paddle fans on medium, blowing downward in summer.
59. Run ceiling paddle fans on low, blowing upward in winter.
60. Change HVAC filters monthly.
61. When installing new air filters, make sure they are facing in the correct direction (look for arrow on side of filter).
62. When heating or cooling, keep windows locked.
63. Insulate electric wall plugs and wall switches with foam pads.
64. Caulk along baseboards with a clear sealant.
65. Close fireplace dampers when not burning a fire.
66. Caulk around plumbing penetrations that come through walls beneath bathroom and kitchen sinks.
67. Caulk electrical wire penetrations at the top of the interior walls.
68. Close shades and drapes at night to keep heat in during the winter.
69. Make sure drapes and shades are open during the day to catch free solar heat in winter.
70. Close shades and drapes during the day to help keep heat out in summer.
71. Ensure that the attic access door closes tightly.
72. Insulate the attic access door.
73. Make sure insulation in your attic does not block soffit vents.
74. Do not close off unused rooms that are conditioned by forced-air systems.
75. Do not close supply air registers.
76. Check to be sure return-air grilles are not blocked by furniture or bookcases.
77. Ensure that windows and doors are properly weather-stripped.
78. Make sure outside soffit vents are not blocked.
79. Do not use rooftop power ventilators for attic exhaust as they may evacuate conditioned air from your home.
80. Have your HVAC system serviced once per year by a NATE-certified technician.
81. Monitor your home’s relative humidity in the summer. If it consistently stays in the 60 percent range or higher, ask your HVAC technician about lowering your central air conditioning unit’s indoor fan speed.
82. Ensure that window A/C units are weather-stripped.
83. Ensure that windows with window-mounted A/C units have weather stripping between the middle of the top and bottom panes.
84. Remove and clean window A/C filter monthly.
85. Keep “fresh-air” vents on window A/C units closed.
86. Use heavy-duty, clear sheets of plastic on the inside of windows to reduce the amount of cold air entering your home.
87. Minimize use of electric space heaters.
88. Ensure that your outdoor heat pump/air conditioning unit is kept clean and free of debris.
89. When using the fireplace, reduce heat loss by opening the damper in the bottom of the firebox (if provided) or open the nearest window slightly.
90. In a basement, seal the sill and band joist with durable caulking or foam sealant.
91. Ensure that floor registers are not blocked with rugs, drapes or furniture.
92. Outside your home, caulk around all penetrations including telephone, electrical, cable, gas, water spigots, dryer vents, etc.
93. Caulk around storm windows.
94. Caulk around basement windows.
95. Verify that your supply air duct “boots” (behind supply air registers) are caulked to your ceiling or wall sheetrock or flooring.
96. In unconditioned spaces, verify that your ducts are tightly connected to your HVAC equipment.
97. Verify that all outdoor doors (including storm doors) close and seal tightly.
98. In two-story homes serviced by one HVAC system, a paddle fan at the top of the stairs can push down hot, second-floor air.
99. Install 15-minute, spring-wound timers on bathroom ventilator fans.
100. Always run your HVAC system fan on “AUTO.” Running it on “ON” uses more electricity and can decrease your air conditioner’s ability to remove moisture.
101. Keep your garage door down. A warmer garage in the winter and cooler garage in the summer will save energy.
Water Heating
1. Set water heater temperature no higher than 120 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. For households with one or two members, a 115-degree Fahrenheit setting may work fine.
3. Install water-heater wrap per manufacturer’s instructions.
4. Drain 1-2 gallons from bottom of water heater each year to reduce sediment buildup.
5. Install heat traps on hot and cold water lines when it’s time to replace your water heater.
6. Insulate exposed hot water lines.
7. Limit shower length to 5-7 minutes.
8. Install low-flow showerheads.
9. Fix dripping faucets.
10. Don’t let water run while you are shaving.
11. Don’t let water run while brushing your teeth.
Laundry
12. Wash clothes in cold water. Use hot water only for very dirty loads.
13. Do only full laundry loads.
14. If you must do smaller loads, adjust the water level in the washing machine to match the load size, especially when using hot water.
15. Always use cold-water rinse.
16. Use bath towels at least twice before washing them.
17. Clean your dryer’s lint trap before each load.
18. Make sure the outdoor dryer exhaust door closes when the dryer is off.
19. Verify that the dryer vent hose is tightly connected to inside wall fitting.
20. Check that the dryer vent hose is tightly connected to dryer.
21. Make sure dryer vent hose is not kinked or clogged.
22. Minimize clothes drying time; use moisture sensor on dryer if available.
23. Dry consecutive loads to harvest heat remaining in dryer from last load.
24. Consider using a “solar-powered” clothes dryer — an old-fashioned clothesline.
Kitchen
25. Use your refrigerator’s anti-sweat feature only if necessary.
26. Switch your refrigerator’s power-saver to “ON,” if available.
27. Clean refrigerator coils annually.
28. Set the refrigerator temperature to 34- 37 degrees Fahrenheit and freezer temperature to 0-5 degrees Fahrenheit.
29. Ensure that gaskets around door seal tightly.
30. Unplug unused refrigerators or freezers.
31. Use microwave for cooking when possible.
32. When cooking on the oven range, use pot lids to help food cook faster.
33. If you are heating water, use hot tap water instead of cold.
34. Remember to use the kitchen exhaust fan when cooking and turn it off after cooking.
35. Use a Crock-Pot™ instead of simmering foods on the stove.
36. Rinse dirty dishes with cold water before putting them into the dishwasher.
37. Use cold water for garbage disposal.
38. Run dishwasher only when fully loaded.
39. Use air-dry cycle instead of heat-dry cycle to dry dishes.
Lighting
40. Replace any lightbulb that burns more than one hour per day with its equivalent compact fluorescent bulb.
41. Turn off unnecessary lighting.
42. Replace outdoor lighting with its outdoor-rated equivalent compact fluorescent bulb.
43. Use fixtures with electronic ballasts and T-8, 32-watt fluorescent lamps.
44. Use outdoor security lights with a photocell and/or a motion sensor.
Miscellaneous
45. Turn computers and monitors off when not in use.
46. Make sure electric blankets are turned off in the morning.
47. Turn waterbed heater off when not needed.
48. Turn large-screen TVs off completely when not in use.
49. Turn off stereos and radios when not in use.
50. Remember to turn off hair curling irons and hot rollers.
51. Turn off coffee makers when not in use.
52. Turn off pool pump and/or heater when not needed.
53. Verify livestock water tank heaters are off when not needed.
54. Make sure heat tape is off when not needed.
55. Unplug battery chargers when not needed.
56. Ensure all new appliances purchased are ENERGY STAR approved.
Heating & Air Conditioning
57. Set thermostats to 78 degrees Fahrenheit in summer, 68 degrees Fahrenheit in winter.
58. Run ceiling paddle fans on medium, blowing downward in summer.
59. Run ceiling paddle fans on low, blowing upward in winter.
60. Change HVAC filters monthly.
61. When installing new air filters, make sure they are facing in the correct direction (look for arrow on side of filter).
62. When heating or cooling, keep windows locked.
63. Insulate electric wall plugs and wall switches with foam pads.
64. Caulk along baseboards with a clear sealant.
65. Close fireplace dampers when not burning a fire.
66. Caulk around plumbing penetrations that come through walls beneath bathroom and kitchen sinks.
67. Caulk electrical wire penetrations at the top of the interior walls.
68. Close shades and drapes at night to keep heat in during the winter.
69. Make sure drapes and shades are open during the day to catch free solar heat in winter.
70. Close shades and drapes during the day to help keep heat out in summer.
71. Ensure that the attic access door closes tightly.
72. Insulate the attic access door.
73. Make sure insulation in your attic does not block soffit vents.
74. Do not close off unused rooms that are conditioned by forced-air systems.
75. Do not close supply air registers.
76. Check to be sure return-air grilles are not blocked by furniture or bookcases.
77. Ensure that windows and doors are properly weather-stripped.
78. Make sure outside soffit vents are not blocked.
79. Do not use rooftop power ventilators for attic exhaust as they may evacuate conditioned air from your home.
80. Have your HVAC system serviced once per year by a NATE-certified technician.
81. Monitor your home’s relative humidity in the summer. If it consistently stays in the 60 percent range or higher, ask your HVAC technician about lowering your central air conditioning unit’s indoor fan speed.
82. Ensure that window A/C units are weather-stripped.
83. Ensure that windows with window-mounted A/C units have weather stripping between the middle of the top and bottom panes.
84. Remove and clean window A/C filter monthly.
85. Keep “fresh-air” vents on window A/C units closed.
86. Use heavy-duty, clear sheets of plastic on the inside of windows to reduce the amount of cold air entering your home.
87. Minimize use of electric space heaters.
88. Ensure that your outdoor heat pump/air conditioning unit is kept clean and free of debris.
89. When using the fireplace, reduce heat loss by opening the damper in the bottom of the firebox (if provided) or open the nearest window slightly.
90. In a basement, seal the sill and band joist with durable caulking or foam sealant.
91. Ensure that floor registers are not blocked with rugs, drapes or furniture.
92. Outside your home, caulk around all penetrations including telephone, electrical, cable, gas, water spigots, dryer vents, etc.
93. Caulk around storm windows.
94. Caulk around basement windows.
95. Verify that your supply air duct “boots” (behind supply air registers) are caulked to your ceiling or wall sheetrock or flooring.
96. In unconditioned spaces, verify that your ducts are tightly connected to your HVAC equipment.
97. Verify that all outdoor doors (including storm doors) close and seal tightly.
98. In two-story homes serviced by one HVAC system, a paddle fan at the top of the stairs can push down hot, second-floor air.
99. Install 15-minute, spring-wound timers on bathroom ventilator fans.
100. Always run your HVAC system fan on “AUTO.” Running it on “ON” uses more electricity and can decrease your air conditioner’s ability to remove moisture.
101. Keep your garage door down. A warmer garage in the winter and cooler garage in the summer will save energy.
50 Ways to Conserve Energy
50 Ways to Conserve Energy
Here is a list of 50 simple things that everyone can do in order to fight against and reduce the Global Warming phenomenon: some of them are at no cost, some other require a little investment but can help you save a lot of money.
Replace a regular incandescent light bulb with a compact fluorescent light bulb (cfl)
■CFLs use 60% less energy than a regular bulb. This simple switch will save about 300 pounds of carbon dioxide a year.
■Install a programmable thermostat
Programmable thermostats will automatically lower the heat or air conditioning at night and raise them again in the morning. They can save you $100 a year on your energy bill.
■Move your thermostat down 2° in winter and up 2° in summer
Almost half of the energy we use in our homes goes to heating and cooling. You could save about 2,000 pounds of carbon dioxide a year with this simple adjustment. The American Council for an Energy Efficient Economy has more tips for saving energy on heating and cooling.
■Clean or replace filters on your furnace and air conditioner
Cleaning a dirty air filter can save 350 pounds of carbon dioxide a year.
■Choose energy efficient appliances when making new purchases
Look for the Energy Star label on new appliances to choose the most efficient models available.
■Do not leave appliances on standby
Use the “on/off” function on the machine itself. A TV set that’s switched on for 3 hours a day (the average time Europeans spend watching TV) and in standby mode during the remaining 21 hours uses about 40% of its energy in standby mode.
■Wrap your water heater in an insulation blanket
You’ll save 1,000 pounds of carbon dioxide a year with this simple action. You can save another 550 pounds per year by setting the thermostat no higher than 50°C.
■Move your fridge and freezer
Placing them next to the cooker or boiler consumes much more energy than if they were standing on their own. For example, if you put them in a hot cellar room where the room temperature is 30-35ºC, energy use is almost double and causes an extra 160kg of CO2 emissions for fridges per year and 320kg for freezers.
■Defrost old fridges and freezers regularly
Even better is to replace them with newer models, which all have automatic defrost cycles and are generally up to two times more energy-efficient than their predecessors.
■Don’t let heat escape from your house over a long period
When airing your house, open the windows for only a few minutes. If you leave a small opening all day long, the energy needed to keep it warm inside during six cold months (10ºC or less outside temperature) would result in almost 1 ton of CO2 emissions.
■Replace your old single-glazed windows with double-glazing
This requires a bit of upfront investment, but will halve the energy lost through windows and pay off in the long term. If you go for the best the market has to offer (wooden-framed double-glazed units with low-emission glass and filled with argon gas), you can even save more than 70% of the energy lost.
■Get a home energy audit
Many utilities offer free home energy audits to find where your home is poorly insulated or energy inefficient. You can save up to 30% off your energy bill and 1,000 pounds of carbon dioxide a year. Energy Star can help you find an energy specialist.
■Cover your pots while cooking
Doing so can save a lot of the energy needed for preparing the dish. Even better are pressure cookers and steamers: they can save around 70%!
■Use the washing machine or dishwasher only when they are full
If you need to use it when it is half full, then use the half-load or economy setting. There is also no need to set the temperatures high. Nowadays detergents are so efficient that they get your clothes and dishes clean at low temperatures.
■Take a shower instead of a bath
A shower takes up to four times less energy than a bath. To maximise the energy saving, avoid power showers and use low-flow showerheads, which are cheap and provide the same comfort.
■Use less hot water
It takes a lot of energy to heat water. You can use less hot water by installing a low flow showerhead (350 pounds of carbon dioxide saved per year) and washing your clothes in cold or warm water (500 pounds saved per year) instead of hot.
■Use a clothesline instead of a dryer whenever possible
You can save 700 pounds of carbon dioxide when you air dry your clothes for 6 months out of the year.
■Insulate and weatherize your home
Properly insulating your walls and ceilings can save 25% of your home heating bill and 2,000 pounds of carbon dioxide a year. Caulking and weather-stripping can save another 1,700 pounds per year. Energy Efficient has more information on how to better insulate your home.
■Be sure you’re recycling at home
You can save 2,400 pounds of carbon dioxide a year by recycling half of the waste your household generates. Earth 911 can help you find recycling resources in your area.
■Recycle your organic waste
Around 3% of the greenhouse gas emissions through the methane is released by decomposing bio-degradable waste. By recycling organic waste or composting it if you have a garden, you can help eliminate this problem! Just make sure that you compost it properly, so it decomposes with sufficient oxygen, otherwise your compost will cause methane emissions and smell foul.
■Buy intelligently
One bottle of 1.5l requires less energy and produces less waste than three bottles of 0.5l. As well, buy recycled paper products: it takes less 70 to 90% less energy to make recycled paper and it prevents the loss of forests worldwide.
■Choose products that come with little packaging and buy refills when you can
You will also cut down on waste production and energy use!
■Reuse your shopping bag
When shopping, it saves energy and waste to use a reusable bag instead of accepting a disposable one in each shop. Waste not only discharges CO2 and methane into the atmosphere, it can also pollute the air, groundwater and soil.
■Reduce waste
Most products we buy cause greenhouse gas emissions in one or another way, e.g. during production and distribution. By taking your lunch in a reusable lunch box instead of a disposable one, you save the energy needed to produce new lunch boxes.
■Plant a tree
A single tree will absorb one ton of carbon dioxide over its lifetime. Shade provided by trees can also reduce your air conditioning bill by 10 to 15%. The Arbor Day Foundation has information on planting and provides trees you can plant with membership.
■Switch to green power
In many areas, you can switch to energy generated by clean, renewable sources such as wind and solar. The Green Power Network is a good place to start to figure out what’s available in your area.
■Buy locally grown and produced foods
The average meal in the United States travels 1,200 miles from the farm to your plate. Buying locally will save fuel and keep money in your community.
■Buy fresh foods instead of frozen
Frozen food uses 10 times more energy to produce.
■Seek out and support local farmers markets
They reduce the amount of energy required to grow and transport the food to you by one fifth. You can find a farmer’s market in your area at the USDA website.
■Buy organic foods as much as possible
Organic soils capture and store carbon dioxide at much higher levels than soils from conventional farms. If we grew all of our corn and soybeans organically, we’d remove 580 billion pounds of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere!
■Eat less meat
Methane is the second most significant greenhouse gas and cows are one of the greatest methane emitters. Their grassy diet and multiple stomachs cause them to produce methane, which they exhale with every breath.
■Reduce the number of miles you drive by walking, biking, carpooling or taking mass transit wherever possible
Avoiding just 10 miles of driving every week would eliminate about 500 pounds of carbon dioxide emissions a year! Look for transit options in your area.
■Start a carpool with your coworkers or classmates
Sharing a ride with someone just 2 days a week will reduce your carbon dioxide emissions by 1,590 pounds a year. eRideShare.com runs a free national service connecting commuters and travelers.
■Don’t leave an empty roof rack on your car
This can increase fuel consumption and CO2 emissions by up to 10% due to wind resistance and the extra weight – removing it is a better idea.
■Keep your car tuned up
Regular maintenance helps improve fuel efficiency and reduces emissions. When just 1% of car owners properly maintain their cars, nearly a billion pounds of carbon dioxide are kept out of the atmosphere.
■Drive carefully and do not waste fuel
You can reduce CO2 emissions by readjusting your driving style. Choose proper gears, do not abuse the gas pedal, use the engine brake instead of the pedal brake when possible and turn off your engine when your vehicle is motionless for more than one minute. By readjusting your driving style you can save money on both fuel and car mantainance.
■Check your tires weekly to make sure they’re properly inflated
Proper inflation can improve gas mileage by more than 3%. Since every gallon of gasoline saved keeps 20 pounds of carbon dioxide out of the atmosphere, every increase in fuel efficiency makes a difference!
■When it is time for a new car, choose a more fuel efficient vehicle
You can save 3,000 pounds of carbon dioxide every year if your new car gets only 3 miles per gallon more than your current one. You can get up to 60 miles per gallon with a hybrid! You can find information on fuel efficiency on FuelEconomy and on GreenCars websites.
■Try car sharing
Need a car but don’t want to buy one? Community car sharing organizations provide access to a car and your membership fee covers gas, maintenance and insurance. Many companies – such as Flexcar – offer low emission or hybrid cars too! Also, see ZipCar.
■Try telecommuting from home
Telecommuting can help you drastically reduce the number of miles you drive every week. For more information, check out the Telework Coalition.
■Fly less
Air travel produces large amounts of emissions so reducing how much you fly by even one or two trips a year can reduce your emissions significantly. You can also offset your air travel by investing in renewable energy projects.
■Encourage your school or business to reduce emissions
You can extend your positive influence on global warming well beyond your home by actively encouraging other to take action.
■Join the virtual march
The Stop Global Warming Virtual March is a non-political effort to bring people concerned about global warming together in one place. Add your voice to the hundreds of thousands of other people urging action on this issue.
■Encourage the switch to renewable energy
Successfully combating global warming requires a national transition to renewable energy sources such as solar, wind and biomass. These technologies are ready to be deployed more widely but there are regulatory barriers impeding them. Take action to break down those barriers with Vote Solar.
■Protect and conserve forest worldwide
Forests play a critial role in global warming: they store carbon. When forests are burned or cut down, their stored carbon is release into the atmosphere – deforestation now accounts for about 20% of carbon dioxide emissions each year. Conservation International has more information on forests and global warming.
■Consider the impact of your investments
If you invest your money, you should consider the impact that your investments and savings will have on global warming. Check out SocialInvest and Ceres to can learn more about how to ensure your money is being invested in companies, products and projects that address issues related to climate change.
■Make your city cool
Cities and states around the country have taken action to stop global warming by passing innovative transportation and energy saving legislation. 194 cities nationwide representing over 40 million people have made this pledge as part of the U.S. Mayors Climate Protection Agreement. Find out how to make your city a cool city.
■Tell Congress to act
The McCain Lieberman Climate Stewardship and Innovation Act would set a firm limit on carbon dioxide emissions and then use free market incentives to lower costs, promote efficiency and spur innovation. Tell your representative to support it.
■Make sure your voice is heard!
Americans must have a stronger commitment from their government in order to stop global warming and implement solutions and such a commitment won’t come without a dramatic increase in citizen lobbying for new laws with teeth. Get the facts about U.S. politicians and candidates at Project Vote Smart and The League of Conservation Voters. Make sure your voice is heard by voting!
Here is a list of 50 simple things that everyone can do in order to fight against and reduce the Global Warming phenomenon: some of them are at no cost, some other require a little investment but can help you save a lot of money.
Replace a regular incandescent light bulb with a compact fluorescent light bulb (cfl)
■CFLs use 60% less energy than a regular bulb. This simple switch will save about 300 pounds of carbon dioxide a year.
■Install a programmable thermostat
Programmable thermostats will automatically lower the heat or air conditioning at night and raise them again in the morning. They can save you $100 a year on your energy bill.
■Move your thermostat down 2° in winter and up 2° in summer
Almost half of the energy we use in our homes goes to heating and cooling. You could save about 2,000 pounds of carbon dioxide a year with this simple adjustment. The American Council for an Energy Efficient Economy has more tips for saving energy on heating and cooling.
■Clean or replace filters on your furnace and air conditioner
Cleaning a dirty air filter can save 350 pounds of carbon dioxide a year.
■Choose energy efficient appliances when making new purchases
Look for the Energy Star label on new appliances to choose the most efficient models available.
■Do not leave appliances on standby
Use the “on/off” function on the machine itself. A TV set that’s switched on for 3 hours a day (the average time Europeans spend watching TV) and in standby mode during the remaining 21 hours uses about 40% of its energy in standby mode.
■Wrap your water heater in an insulation blanket
You’ll save 1,000 pounds of carbon dioxide a year with this simple action. You can save another 550 pounds per year by setting the thermostat no higher than 50°C.
■Move your fridge and freezer
Placing them next to the cooker or boiler consumes much more energy than if they were standing on their own. For example, if you put them in a hot cellar room where the room temperature is 30-35ºC, energy use is almost double and causes an extra 160kg of CO2 emissions for fridges per year and 320kg for freezers.
■Defrost old fridges and freezers regularly
Even better is to replace them with newer models, which all have automatic defrost cycles and are generally up to two times more energy-efficient than their predecessors.
■Don’t let heat escape from your house over a long period
When airing your house, open the windows for only a few minutes. If you leave a small opening all day long, the energy needed to keep it warm inside during six cold months (10ºC or less outside temperature) would result in almost 1 ton of CO2 emissions.
■Replace your old single-glazed windows with double-glazing
This requires a bit of upfront investment, but will halve the energy lost through windows and pay off in the long term. If you go for the best the market has to offer (wooden-framed double-glazed units with low-emission glass and filled with argon gas), you can even save more than 70% of the energy lost.
■Get a home energy audit
Many utilities offer free home energy audits to find where your home is poorly insulated or energy inefficient. You can save up to 30% off your energy bill and 1,000 pounds of carbon dioxide a year. Energy Star can help you find an energy specialist.
■Cover your pots while cooking
Doing so can save a lot of the energy needed for preparing the dish. Even better are pressure cookers and steamers: they can save around 70%!
■Use the washing machine or dishwasher only when they are full
If you need to use it when it is half full, then use the half-load or economy setting. There is also no need to set the temperatures high. Nowadays detergents are so efficient that they get your clothes and dishes clean at low temperatures.
■Take a shower instead of a bath
A shower takes up to four times less energy than a bath. To maximise the energy saving, avoid power showers and use low-flow showerheads, which are cheap and provide the same comfort.
■Use less hot water
It takes a lot of energy to heat water. You can use less hot water by installing a low flow showerhead (350 pounds of carbon dioxide saved per year) and washing your clothes in cold or warm water (500 pounds saved per year) instead of hot.
■Use a clothesline instead of a dryer whenever possible
You can save 700 pounds of carbon dioxide when you air dry your clothes for 6 months out of the year.
■Insulate and weatherize your home
Properly insulating your walls and ceilings can save 25% of your home heating bill and 2,000 pounds of carbon dioxide a year. Caulking and weather-stripping can save another 1,700 pounds per year. Energy Efficient has more information on how to better insulate your home.
■Be sure you’re recycling at home
You can save 2,400 pounds of carbon dioxide a year by recycling half of the waste your household generates. Earth 911 can help you find recycling resources in your area.
■Recycle your organic waste
Around 3% of the greenhouse gas emissions through the methane is released by decomposing bio-degradable waste. By recycling organic waste or composting it if you have a garden, you can help eliminate this problem! Just make sure that you compost it properly, so it decomposes with sufficient oxygen, otherwise your compost will cause methane emissions and smell foul.
■Buy intelligently
One bottle of 1.5l requires less energy and produces less waste than three bottles of 0.5l. As well, buy recycled paper products: it takes less 70 to 90% less energy to make recycled paper and it prevents the loss of forests worldwide.
■Choose products that come with little packaging and buy refills when you can
You will also cut down on waste production and energy use!
■Reuse your shopping bag
When shopping, it saves energy and waste to use a reusable bag instead of accepting a disposable one in each shop. Waste not only discharges CO2 and methane into the atmosphere, it can also pollute the air, groundwater and soil.
■Reduce waste
Most products we buy cause greenhouse gas emissions in one or another way, e.g. during production and distribution. By taking your lunch in a reusable lunch box instead of a disposable one, you save the energy needed to produce new lunch boxes.
■Plant a tree
A single tree will absorb one ton of carbon dioxide over its lifetime. Shade provided by trees can also reduce your air conditioning bill by 10 to 15%. The Arbor Day Foundation has information on planting and provides trees you can plant with membership.
■Switch to green power
In many areas, you can switch to energy generated by clean, renewable sources such as wind and solar. The Green Power Network is a good place to start to figure out what’s available in your area.
■Buy locally grown and produced foods
The average meal in the United States travels 1,200 miles from the farm to your plate. Buying locally will save fuel and keep money in your community.
■Buy fresh foods instead of frozen
Frozen food uses 10 times more energy to produce.
■Seek out and support local farmers markets
They reduce the amount of energy required to grow and transport the food to you by one fifth. You can find a farmer’s market in your area at the USDA website.
■Buy organic foods as much as possible
Organic soils capture and store carbon dioxide at much higher levels than soils from conventional farms. If we grew all of our corn and soybeans organically, we’d remove 580 billion pounds of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere!
■Eat less meat
Methane is the second most significant greenhouse gas and cows are one of the greatest methane emitters. Their grassy diet and multiple stomachs cause them to produce methane, which they exhale with every breath.
■Reduce the number of miles you drive by walking, biking, carpooling or taking mass transit wherever possible
Avoiding just 10 miles of driving every week would eliminate about 500 pounds of carbon dioxide emissions a year! Look for transit options in your area.
■Start a carpool with your coworkers or classmates
Sharing a ride with someone just 2 days a week will reduce your carbon dioxide emissions by 1,590 pounds a year. eRideShare.com runs a free national service connecting commuters and travelers.
■Don’t leave an empty roof rack on your car
This can increase fuel consumption and CO2 emissions by up to 10% due to wind resistance and the extra weight – removing it is a better idea.
■Keep your car tuned up
Regular maintenance helps improve fuel efficiency and reduces emissions. When just 1% of car owners properly maintain their cars, nearly a billion pounds of carbon dioxide are kept out of the atmosphere.
■Drive carefully and do not waste fuel
You can reduce CO2 emissions by readjusting your driving style. Choose proper gears, do not abuse the gas pedal, use the engine brake instead of the pedal brake when possible and turn off your engine when your vehicle is motionless for more than one minute. By readjusting your driving style you can save money on both fuel and car mantainance.
■Check your tires weekly to make sure they’re properly inflated
Proper inflation can improve gas mileage by more than 3%. Since every gallon of gasoline saved keeps 20 pounds of carbon dioxide out of the atmosphere, every increase in fuel efficiency makes a difference!
■When it is time for a new car, choose a more fuel efficient vehicle
You can save 3,000 pounds of carbon dioxide every year if your new car gets only 3 miles per gallon more than your current one. You can get up to 60 miles per gallon with a hybrid! You can find information on fuel efficiency on FuelEconomy and on GreenCars websites.
■Try car sharing
Need a car but don’t want to buy one? Community car sharing organizations provide access to a car and your membership fee covers gas, maintenance and insurance. Many companies – such as Flexcar – offer low emission or hybrid cars too! Also, see ZipCar.
■Try telecommuting from home
Telecommuting can help you drastically reduce the number of miles you drive every week. For more information, check out the Telework Coalition.
■Fly less
Air travel produces large amounts of emissions so reducing how much you fly by even one or two trips a year can reduce your emissions significantly. You can also offset your air travel by investing in renewable energy projects.
■Encourage your school or business to reduce emissions
You can extend your positive influence on global warming well beyond your home by actively encouraging other to take action.
■Join the virtual march
The Stop Global Warming Virtual March is a non-political effort to bring people concerned about global warming together in one place. Add your voice to the hundreds of thousands of other people urging action on this issue.
■Encourage the switch to renewable energy
Successfully combating global warming requires a national transition to renewable energy sources such as solar, wind and biomass. These technologies are ready to be deployed more widely but there are regulatory barriers impeding them. Take action to break down those barriers with Vote Solar.
■Protect and conserve forest worldwide
Forests play a critial role in global warming: they store carbon. When forests are burned or cut down, their stored carbon is release into the atmosphere – deforestation now accounts for about 20% of carbon dioxide emissions each year. Conservation International has more information on forests and global warming.
■Consider the impact of your investments
If you invest your money, you should consider the impact that your investments and savings will have on global warming. Check out SocialInvest and Ceres to can learn more about how to ensure your money is being invested in companies, products and projects that address issues related to climate change.
■Make your city cool
Cities and states around the country have taken action to stop global warming by passing innovative transportation and energy saving legislation. 194 cities nationwide representing over 40 million people have made this pledge as part of the U.S. Mayors Climate Protection Agreement. Find out how to make your city a cool city.
■Tell Congress to act
The McCain Lieberman Climate Stewardship and Innovation Act would set a firm limit on carbon dioxide emissions and then use free market incentives to lower costs, promote efficiency and spur innovation. Tell your representative to support it.
■Make sure your voice is heard!
Americans must have a stronger commitment from their government in order to stop global warming and implement solutions and such a commitment won’t come without a dramatic increase in citizen lobbying for new laws with teeth. Get the facts about U.S. politicians and candidates at Project Vote Smart and The League of Conservation Voters. Make sure your voice is heard by voting!
15 Ways to Save Energy
15 Ways to Save Energy
1. Get creative about your commute. Try your best to ride the bus or carpool to work at least a day or two a week. Is there any way you can work at home some days?
2. Use your energy to get around. Try biking to work or, if that is impractical, leaving your bike at your workplace to use on short errands around town. On the weekends, see if you can do without your car and ride your bike or walk to the grocery store and the park.
3. Trade in your gas-guzzler. With extra-efficient and hybrid vehicles on the market and our world's gasoline supply near it's peak, it is time to make your car's fuel-efficiency a top priority. When shopping for a new ride, buy the most efficient vehicle that will fit your needs. New small commuter cars like the Toyota Yaris get up to 30 miles per gallon in the city and into the upper 30's on the highway.
4. Buy local. Purchasing locally made goods saves energy by cutting unnecessary transportation costs. Many times the cost savings is passed on to the consumer, making prices for local goods and services competitive with those from big chain stores or corporations. Look for locally grown food (including dairy), as well as locally made furniture, clothing, gifts, and other items. If your neighbor is a plumber, hire him the next time you need a plumber's services.
5. Unplug electronics when not in use. At home and at work, make it a habit to unplug unused electronics. Many electronic items continue to suck energy from the grid even when the power is off. Energy vampires include DVD players, printers, microwaves, TVs, and stereos - or anything that displays lights or a clock after the power button is pushed. Getting into this habit can save between six and 26 percent of your average monthly electricity bill according to a 2001 survey by students and scientists at the University of California, Berkeley.
6. Use the sun to your advantage. Don't habitually close the blinds and turn on the lights in your home or office when the sun's light is available. During the day open all blinds and make sure lights are turned off. Turn on the lights you need when you need them. Letting in sunlight during the colder months of the year may also help lower heating costs.
7. Use efficient appliances. Your standard appliances may work just fine, but consider upgrading to new ultra-efficient models (you could donate your old ones to people in need or have them recycled). Appliances manufactured in the last few years are significantly more energy efficient than their predecessors - washers and dishwashers use a fraction of the water, too.
8. Switch to compact florescent light bulbs (CFLs). CFLs are reasonably priced and readily available to fit most light fixtures. Their energy savings is not to be overlooked - CFLs use up to 75% less energy than standard bulbs and can save more than $30 off your energy bill over the life of each bulb. To put their importance in perspective, consider that the US government's Energy Star website states: "if every American home replaced just one light bulb with an Energy Star qualified bulb, we would save enough energy to light more than 3 million homes for a year, more than $600 million in annual energy costs, and prevent greenhouse gases equivalent to the emissions of more than 800,000 cars."
9. Line-dry your clothes. Let's face it - if you had to live without your clothes dryer, you could. It may be inconvenient at times, but learning to be less reliant on your dryer can save loads of energy. Buy expandable racks to use inside for drying clothes and install a clothesline outside, if possible, for use in the summer. If you need your line-dried towels fluffy throw them in the dryer on the fluff cycle (no heat).
10. Wash clothes in cold water. Most laundry can be washed on a cold cycle and come out just as clean as if you'd used warm water. Use non-chlorine bleach or a few drops of tea tree oil in your load to freshen if necessary.
11. Take shorter showers and install a low-flow shower head. Saving hot water means saving the energy used by your hot water heater.
12. Keep your freezer full. Your freezer uses less energy maintaining the temperature if it is full. If you do not keep much frozen food around, fill empty containers from yogurt or deli items with water and stock your freezer with them.
13. Add or remove clothing to stay comfortable. If the temperature inside is not just right don't act first by adjusting the thermostat - try to bear it by adjusting your clothing instead.
14. Run full dishwasher loads. Many studies have shown running full dishwasher loads saves energy over hand-washing dishes. This is true especially if you have a new ultra-efficient dishwasher.
15. Turn unnecessary lights off. Everyone in your household or office should know to turn off the lights in a room if they are the last ones out. Keep nighttime outside lighting to a minimum and consider installing dimmer switches anywhere lighting can be turned down.
1. Get creative about your commute. Try your best to ride the bus or carpool to work at least a day or two a week. Is there any way you can work at home some days?
2. Use your energy to get around. Try biking to work or, if that is impractical, leaving your bike at your workplace to use on short errands around town. On the weekends, see if you can do without your car and ride your bike or walk to the grocery store and the park.
3. Trade in your gas-guzzler. With extra-efficient and hybrid vehicles on the market and our world's gasoline supply near it's peak, it is time to make your car's fuel-efficiency a top priority. When shopping for a new ride, buy the most efficient vehicle that will fit your needs. New small commuter cars like the Toyota Yaris get up to 30 miles per gallon in the city and into the upper 30's on the highway.
4. Buy local. Purchasing locally made goods saves energy by cutting unnecessary transportation costs. Many times the cost savings is passed on to the consumer, making prices for local goods and services competitive with those from big chain stores or corporations. Look for locally grown food (including dairy), as well as locally made furniture, clothing, gifts, and other items. If your neighbor is a plumber, hire him the next time you need a plumber's services.
5. Unplug electronics when not in use. At home and at work, make it a habit to unplug unused electronics. Many electronic items continue to suck energy from the grid even when the power is off. Energy vampires include DVD players, printers, microwaves, TVs, and stereos - or anything that displays lights or a clock after the power button is pushed. Getting into this habit can save between six and 26 percent of your average monthly electricity bill according to a 2001 survey by students and scientists at the University of California, Berkeley.
6. Use the sun to your advantage. Don't habitually close the blinds and turn on the lights in your home or office when the sun's light is available. During the day open all blinds and make sure lights are turned off. Turn on the lights you need when you need them. Letting in sunlight during the colder months of the year may also help lower heating costs.
7. Use efficient appliances. Your standard appliances may work just fine, but consider upgrading to new ultra-efficient models (you could donate your old ones to people in need or have them recycled). Appliances manufactured in the last few years are significantly more energy efficient than their predecessors - washers and dishwashers use a fraction of the water, too.
8. Switch to compact florescent light bulbs (CFLs). CFLs are reasonably priced and readily available to fit most light fixtures. Their energy savings is not to be overlooked - CFLs use up to 75% less energy than standard bulbs and can save more than $30 off your energy bill over the life of each bulb. To put their importance in perspective, consider that the US government's Energy Star website states: "if every American home replaced just one light bulb with an Energy Star qualified bulb, we would save enough energy to light more than 3 million homes for a year, more than $600 million in annual energy costs, and prevent greenhouse gases equivalent to the emissions of more than 800,000 cars."
9. Line-dry your clothes. Let's face it - if you had to live without your clothes dryer, you could. It may be inconvenient at times, but learning to be less reliant on your dryer can save loads of energy. Buy expandable racks to use inside for drying clothes and install a clothesline outside, if possible, for use in the summer. If you need your line-dried towels fluffy throw them in the dryer on the fluff cycle (no heat).
10. Wash clothes in cold water. Most laundry can be washed on a cold cycle and come out just as clean as if you'd used warm water. Use non-chlorine bleach or a few drops of tea tree oil in your load to freshen if necessary.
11. Take shorter showers and install a low-flow shower head. Saving hot water means saving the energy used by your hot water heater.
12. Keep your freezer full. Your freezer uses less energy maintaining the temperature if it is full. If you do not keep much frozen food around, fill empty containers from yogurt or deli items with water and stock your freezer with them.
13. Add or remove clothing to stay comfortable. If the temperature inside is not just right don't act first by adjusting the thermostat - try to bear it by adjusting your clothing instead.
14. Run full dishwasher loads. Many studies have shown running full dishwasher loads saves energy over hand-washing dishes. This is true especially if you have a new ultra-efficient dishwasher.
15. Turn unnecessary lights off. Everyone in your household or office should know to turn off the lights in a room if they are the last ones out. Keep nighttime outside lighting to a minimum and consider installing dimmer switches anywhere lighting can be turned down.
Saving Electricity: How to Reduce Your Energy Costs
Saving Electricity: How to Reduce Your Energy Costs
•If you use space heaters instead of central heating, you can save nearly $1200/year!
•If you use fans instead of air conditioning, you can save about $600/year.
•If you dry your clothes on a line instead of in a dryer, you can save $150/year.
•If you wash your laundry in cold water instead of hot, you can save $150/year.
•If you replace regular light bulbs with compact fluorescents, you can save nearly $100/year.
•If you get rid of your television, you can save $75/year.
•If you put your computer in sleep mode when you’re not using it, you can save $60/year.
•If you use space heaters instead of central heating, you can save nearly $1200/year!
•If you use fans instead of air conditioning, you can save about $600/year.
•If you dry your clothes on a line instead of in a dryer, you can save $150/year.
•If you wash your laundry in cold water instead of hot, you can save $150/year.
•If you replace regular light bulbs with compact fluorescents, you can save nearly $100/year.
•If you get rid of your television, you can save $75/year.
•If you put your computer in sleep mode when you’re not using it, you can save $60/year.
20 Free Ways to Save Energy
20 Free Ways to Save Energy
1.Wash clothes in cold water. Most of the cost in running a washer is in heating the water.
2.Hang clothes on a line.
3.Don’t overdry your laundry. Remove clothes from the dryer while they’re still a little damp.
4.Let the dishwasher do the work. Don’t pre-rinse dishes. (This shocks me. I always pre-rinse dishes.)
5.Put your PC to sleep.
6.Turn down the heat in winter. Turn down the air conditioning in summer. Especially when you’re asleep or away from home. (See also.)
7.Don’t use a conventional fireplace.
8.Lower the shades and raise the windows instead of using appliances to regulate temperatures.
9.Use fans instead of an air conditioner.
10.If you use an air conditioner, keep it well maintained.
11.Lower the thermostat on your water heater.
12.Think twice before turning on the oven (especially in summer). A microwave is more energy-efficient.
13.Use the right pan for the right burner.
14.Read the label on new appliances — seek energy-efficient models.
15.Learn to use a crock-pot.
16.Clean the coils on your fridge.
17.Drive steadily, and a bit slower. Rapid acceleration and sudden braking use more fuel. So do higher speeds.
18.Roof racks reduce fuel-efficiency.
19.Stick with regular unless your vehicle’s manufacturer recommends premium.
20.Don’t let your car idle or “warm up”. “With most gasoline engines, it’s more efficient to turn off the engine than to idle longer than 30 seconds.”
1.Wash clothes in cold water. Most of the cost in running a washer is in heating the water.
2.Hang clothes on a line.
3.Don’t overdry your laundry. Remove clothes from the dryer while they’re still a little damp.
4.Let the dishwasher do the work. Don’t pre-rinse dishes. (This shocks me. I always pre-rinse dishes.)
5.Put your PC to sleep.
6.Turn down the heat in winter. Turn down the air conditioning in summer. Especially when you’re asleep or away from home. (See also.)
7.Don’t use a conventional fireplace.
8.Lower the shades and raise the windows instead of using appliances to regulate temperatures.
9.Use fans instead of an air conditioner.
10.If you use an air conditioner, keep it well maintained.
11.Lower the thermostat on your water heater.
12.Think twice before turning on the oven (especially in summer). A microwave is more energy-efficient.
13.Use the right pan for the right burner.
14.Read the label on new appliances — seek energy-efficient models.
15.Learn to use a crock-pot.
16.Clean the coils on your fridge.
17.Drive steadily, and a bit slower. Rapid acceleration and sudden braking use more fuel. So do higher speeds.
18.Roof racks reduce fuel-efficiency.
19.Stick with regular unless your vehicle’s manufacturer recommends premium.
20.Don’t let your car idle or “warm up”. “With most gasoline engines, it’s more efficient to turn off the engine than to idle longer than 30 seconds.”